Osama Bin Laden's Death and My (unpatriotic?) Reaction

"Are we seeking power for power's sake? Or are we seeking to make the world and our nation better places to live. If we seek the latter, violence can never provide the answer. The ultimate weakness of violence is that it is a descending spiral, begetting the very thing it seeks to destroy. Instead of diminishing evil, it multiplies it. Through violence you may murder the liar, but you cannot murder the lie, nor establish the truth. Through violence you may murder the hater, but you do not murder hate. In fact, violence merely increases hate. So it goes. Returning violence for violence multiplies violence, adding deeper darkness to a night already devoid of stars. Darkness cannot drive out darkness: only light can do that. Hate cannot drive out hate: only love can do that."
A Testament of Hope: The Essential Writings and Speeches of Martin Luther King, Jr.

For almost 3 years now I have lived outside of the U.S. During that time, I have spent significant time in Europe, (Spain) Africa (Uganda) and Oceania (New Zealand). From a new perspective, I have learned quite a bit about my country and what foreigners think about it, as well. I have spoken to people with very strong opinions and those who have little interest in what America does outside of its implications for them personally. I have also heard from people who put my knowledge of American politics to shame.

Living outside of the U.S has given me the opportunity to be an observer and I'd like to think, more open to opinions or thoughts not felt or not expressed while living and working in a small Michigan suburb. There have been many times I've felt subject to scrutiny and respect just for being an American. I can recall several instances where within minutes of meeting someone, I was told why "most Americans, not you of course (uh...ok) are ignorant, ethnocentric, etc. Other moments, specifically in Spain and Uganda around the time of Obama being sworn in as president, I was congratulated and privileged (or forced, however you want to look at it) to hear why Americans were so great and why our country was the best in the World. I feel both the respect and the scrutiny by people who know nothing about me is undeserving.

Thankfully most people, like many Americans, don’t lump an entire nation as one. I am aware however, that at times I have stood as a representative of over 250 million people and for conversation’s sake, been the spokesperson for an entire country. I’d like to think that in those instances, I do a fair job representing what an American is; open-minded, respectful of other cultures, and interested in world events. It also terrifies me to think that some Americans I know could be put in the same situation and viewed as “the typical American” spewing off a host of ignorant or rude statements.

Watching the Osama Bin Laden coverage from India and discussing it with Indians, South Africans, Kiwis and Brits has again provided me with a different perspective than had I experienced the events surrounding his death in America. Perhaps this is why my first feelings were not of pride or satisfaction but sadness; I can’t help but feel a bit sad when I see thousands of Americans in the streets screaming “hey hey hey, goodbye,” jubilant over the death of a human being. I admit, I’m not upset to see a man who clearly hated others for being different now unable to cause more terror and spew hateful propoganda under the guise of “God’s word,” but I also don’t understand how so many Americans, half whom likely do not support the death penalty, feel a massive celebration is in order. Yes, Osama Bin Laden stands symbolically as the evil behind the destruction of the twin towers. Yes, this may be a very sobering hit to terrorist cells viewing Bin Laden as untouchable or somehow protected by Allah’s favor and yes, I understand that a public celebration might be for many who have lost loved ones in war or 9/11 a peaceful way to let out so much sadness, anger and frustration. But is this justice? Will these celebrations seen not only by those who lost loved ones in 9/11 but those who continue to lose lives from American bombings and “collateral damage” raids, bring long term peace?

My unwillingness to rejoice or lack of understanding comes from what I think of as the hypocrisy of these demonstrations and outdoor celebrations. We have watched celebrations like these done by Muslims who believe the death of American soldiers brings justice to their loved ones and American media has condemned them. Some of these "celebrants have seen their families killed by American bombs or in some cases, unjustifiably murdered. Along with war comes trigger-happy young soldiers scared and unfamiliar with foreign people and foreign lands who invariably make horrible mistakes. What is the difference between their sadness and ours? What makes it ok to declare the death of one killer “justice” and the other simply a consequence of war?

When an American flag is burned, many of us are scared and angry at the inherent hatred we seem to think comes from Islamic countries yet our media shows images and video of Americans saying things including Bin Laden’s death is “a tribute to the millions of men and women in our armed forces and elsewhere who have fought so hard for our nation.” When did death become a tribute?

I don’t condone ANY act of terror and if I had to be honest, it probably is a better world with someone spewing so many messages of hate now unable to do so but does that make it right to send the message that killing is the answer or that killing is right? I hope that along with these messages of congratulations Americans continue to educate themselves on the issues and the reasons behind the evil of someone like Bin Laden. As one Senior Afghan official tells The Guardian’s Jon Boone;

"While thrilled to see the removal of the worst enemy of Islam who inflicted irreparable damage to image of Islam and Muslims, my concern is his death becomes the justification for US's premature disengagement from the region," one senior Afghan government official who specialises in foreign affairs said. "We should not forget the sad reality that the region has suffered immensely from al-Qaida and the early mistakes and policies of the West who helped his rise, though as an unintended consequences. We should also remember he left a sophisticated and extensive diffuse network in the region and thus the need to be cautious."

After reading an article written by Elisha Goldstein, her final comments stood out and seem to perfectly encompass my own feelings:

"So goodbye Osama Bin Laden may the families and friends who have suffered at your hands feel more at peace without you around. And may you be at peace with the wars that raged within you to the point where you held the misguided delusion that killing thousands of people was somehow a path in the right direction.

May we all be free from our misguided reactions to the wars within and help guide all people into a direction of greater empathy, compassion, and peace within ourselves and the world."

That's a whoooole lotta babies!

Wednesday like usual starts off at the Bbira Health Center where along with either Sam or Nicholas, I give a presentation to about 20-30 women regarding pre and post-natal care. At first it seemed kind of pointless togo through so thoroughly all the things to consider prior to childbirth when every women there had their young newborn in their arms coming to get vaccinated! My “words of wisdom” about morning sickness and trying to do the best they can to meet their nutritional needs seemed a little silly until I realized I was thinking like a Westerner; first of all, most of these women were young. Young like 18-22 young. Many have probably never been advised at all on what to do when pregnant especially if they don’t have the funds for check-ups at their local clinic. Secondly, there is probably a 95% chance this will NOT be their last child. On average, women with no education have 7.7 children while women with secondary education have 4.4. For simplicities sake, the general countrywide statistic is that the average Ugandan woman will have 6.6 children in her lifetime. (uh WHOA?!? Anyone with me on this one?) Compare this to the United States; on average a women gives birth to 2.3 children! If you’re really interested, there is also a large discrepancy between different ethnicities and income levels but I will leave something for you to Google yourself.

I can testify to the large number of children here by what I have witnessed on home visits. I do think it’s important to note however that while women may give birth to 7 children, it is not uncommon for one or more children to die of complications or disease. So getting out of my sheltered western thoughts, I do see the value in educating mothers for future births or even perhaps to act as counselors or advisors to others and their future daughters!

Along with the presentation, we leave enough time for questions. One question I had today was a really good one posed by a woman with a very young baby. Her question; “what doI do if my neighbors smoke all the time and it is impossible not to breathe the fumes?” I was really impressed with her because for most parents, this is a trivial concern. Cigarette smoke? Falls somewhere far after meeting nutritional needs and before sending their kid to Disney World. It was also obvious when I responded with the only suggestion I had (try to explain to these young men the danger to a young child’s developing lungs and do your best to avoid it) that my answer was far from sufficient. I thought her look of "ok foreign born speaker with no children of your own" look was quite the acceptable response. I don’t think she could see herself requesting them to find another spot to smoke so I decided maybe another solution would be better and I left it at this; “just tell them the crazy mzungu told you it was necessary.”

(Photo: 2 of the kids proudly showing off their pictures!)

My afternoon was spent at the orphanage and today I brought some of the materials I came to Uganda with for the kids anddecided today would be a great day to color! The kids not surprisingly agreed! I have brought some coloring book pages before but today was met with what I later came to view as a coloring Olympics; everyone was out to make THE BEST DRAWING EVER!Great for the kids, a little

insane for me. I had the idea to tape up their pictures on the wall to allow them to show off a little and to put some color up. This was before I realized I was in the coloring Olympics. About 15 minutes in, I was already overwhelmed. I couldn’tkeep up with the demand for tape and decided to delegate. Delegating to 6 year olds is a point I never thought I’d reach. I began cutting tape and just handing it to outreached hands yelling, “and me!” I did that until I thought of how when I taught English to the Spanish kids, I would make them say “please” before they could get/use anything and so thought I would incorporate it here. Please is rarely a used word in Luganda and in Luganda, the command form is used much more than polite form. For example, a child will tell a teacher “give me the paper” and that is not rude at all. It was hard trying to get across the reason for them to say please but they certainly enthusiastically said it! So enthusiastic that for some, one time was simply not sufficient. In fact half a dozen times was not enough. A chant of “tape please, tape please, tape please” (you get the picture) ensued for the next half hour. My favorite part was when I got so fed up when they all needed 4 pieces that I put a piece on a kids nose instead of his outstretchd finger. Apparently this was HILAAARIOUS and from that moment on, I would get kids reaching their noses out to get tape.

(Photo: Obvious storage spot for extra tape-the forehead.)

The other moment that really stood out was talking to some of the older kids. Carlos, perhaps the only child in Uganda taking an active interest in Spanish (hence, why he is obviously one of the coolest kids I know) mentioned to me the other day how he wantedto learn about Dinosaurs. I have 3 books I brought with me including one from the Ms. Frizzle collection (if you don’t know this woman your childhood was slightly less wonderful than it should have been.) and brought them to the orphanage for the kids to check out. For over an hour, Carlos was completely occupied and could not be bothered. He sat on a chair with one of the books and read it from front to back. He is a quiet and shy kid around me already and I have a hard time judging if he is excited over something or having a good time but his attention to this book left no room for doubt. It was awesome to see someone who really wanted to learn and provide the tools for them to do it! Like I mentioned, his love for spanish already makes him awesome in my eyes but being a book nerd too? If I was 13 he would be my best friend! They have a pretty good collection in their classroom of books so I was also amazed when he told me he has read every one. I don't doubt it. This is one person who is inspiring me with a love for reading and learning and I can't wait to see what other books I still have that he might be interested in!

(Photos: top-Future Paleontologists? bottom-My man Carlos lost in a new book.)

Murchison Falls 9/2-9/4

There is one trip I really wanted to make while in Uganda and that was to Murchison Falls National Park. Murchison is in the northeast of Uganda close to the DRC border. If you look in guidebooks for information, most still tell you they advise caution as several years ago, Murchison still had some issues with poachers as well as Joseph Kony and the LRA. Since it’s so close to the DRC (Democratic Republic of Congo) and the result of its’ massive size, Murchison Falls National Park has had to increase security and closely monitor borders. That being said, to give you a picture of its popularity now, I was not able to book a weekend trip until mid-October so I had to settle on a trip leaving on a Wednesday morning!

A quick history of the Park; Prior to the rule of Idi Amin, the park had provided enough land and vegetation for the animal population to boom. Unfortunately, it had reached a point where it was only a matter of time before the land would become a wasteland due to the animals overtaking and eating all plant-life. This changed dramatically when thousands of animals in the park were massacred changing the environment of the park completely. As awful as it sounds, there is one positive thing that came out of it; the vegetation was given enough time to recover and the park was more than capable of supporting the new population levels. Amin’s acts of murder and violence are one reason why the park today has so much natural vegetation!

Back to my trip, we left early Wednesday morning starting a ride that was about 6 hours. We stopped for lunch in Masindi, a small town halfway where I got yet another unique coffee drinking experience. The menu had two choices; african coffee or coffee. I know african coffee is coffee already mixed with mild and sometimes sugar so I figured I was getting black coffee. 10 minutes later, I received a tray carrying what must be the nicest way possible to present instant coffee. A pitcher of hot water next to a small bowl of what I thought was cinnamon and an empty mug. I thought it was cinnamon that is, until I noticed the pitcher had only water. It was definitely not what I expected but a new experience and also kind of put me back in my place from taking things for granted or making presumptions. The coffee certainly wasn't the worse I've had (see past blog and my

description of drinking the shells of the beans) but again, a simple thing like that made me grateful for the thousands of times I have not even thought about having to slightly grimace when I first try it! Our lunch break was relatively uneventful and Igot a chance to meet some of the other travelers; a couple from Germany, a Dutch woman who had recently decided to move back home after 10 years in Tanzania, a New Zealand backpacker and an Australian on holiday passionate about bird-watching.

(Photo: Sign inside the park on the way to our campsite. Reassuring.)
When we arrived at the park, my 12 year old instincts kicked in and since I was the only one who had never been to a game park or safari, every animal got me exci

ted! A warthog on the road and I was glued to it, a monkey in the tree and I was pointing it out. A GROUP of baboons in front of our van? Don’t bother talking to me, I won't hear you. I appreciated how no one rudely told me how spotting game animals in a GAME PARK is normal. Looking back, I must have seemed like a little kid at the theme park who goes nuts at spotting the tilt-a-whirl while all the other kids are looking around for the death drop or big rollercoasters but hey, this was my moment and I was going to enjoy it! :)

The drive through the park takes at least another 1 ½ hours to get to the campsite. Once there, you can’t ask for anything better. A view overlooking the park where you can order food and drinks and just stare out at some of the most incredible works of nature. My favorite part was their idea of sleeping in a tent. Of course there are better options but for my budget, the tent was going to be our home for the next 2 nights. When I think tent I think triangle big enough to sleep under and not much else. OUR “tent” had beds! It was amazing! Even a little nightstand where we could put a lantern in the evening.

(Photo: One of my favorite sights-giraffes! They are BEAUTIFUL to see)The next morning we went on a game drive. For those of you (like me) who were not sure what a game drive entails, It’s like an extreme zoo trip. Of “the big five” (lion, elephant, rhino, leopard, and buffalo) FOUR can be found at this moment. Rhino’s can be seen if you pay for an additional excursion but perhaps by next year they will be reintroduced to the park. My favorite were the giraffes. They are incredible and so beautiful. It was really neat to see them in their natural habitat and not in an enclosed fence with their trainer feeding them nearby. There were hundreds and we watched some cross the dirt path right in front of our van! The elephants were a bit more shy but we managed to get very close to a family at one point and even had to move farther away from one who didn’t seem pleased to see us. I learned that when close to a group of elephants, the park wardens do not keep the engine running because the forgot or they don’t like you, they keep it running so if an elephant decides to charge the vehicle, you have a better chance of not getting rolled! Great to know.

Finally, the highlight for most was the lion sighting. They explained that it doesn’t always happen so we were lucky. We literally turned a corner to find a lone male lion right next to the road just staring at us! We were the first ones to see it so we had a few minutes by ourselves to be extremely impressed. We even saw his lioness after awhile come out of the bushes! As for the leopard, no luck. Those guys aren’t fans of paparazzi and as hard as I tried to spot them or their half-eaten prey in the trees, no luck.

The afternoon was our time to check out the animals along the Nile coming to drink. There are boats for about 20-25 people and a guide that explains what you are seeing and they take you along the banks of the Nile up to Murchison Falls and back. The whole trip is supposed to take about 3 hours-2 hours on the way and 1 for the ride back. I had walked down to the peer with 2 other girls only to find out that they had overbooked the boats when we arrived with another group. Things didn’t look good. They were already filled and we were still on the bank. Fortunately, the head of the company organizing this trip was there as well and after apologizing, told us we would have a special boat and go with only 5! Two minutes later, I am in a boat with my two friends and two other guys on a small speedboat. I truly think we got the best end of the deal. We got to get a little closer to land and we put on a little guilt-trip and he took us much closer to the Falls than he was supposed to! I had an incredible time and by being left out, I think I got the better experience!

(Photo: I got to see TONS of hippos on the boat trip! They are huuge!)
Friday morning was our chance to hike the Falls. This was amazing. I have never seen such a powerful force of water and the views were breathtaking. It was impossible not to feel like you were not in one of the most beautiful places on earth with a rainbow over the falls and no man-made objects save for the poorly constructed "safety rail" in sight. The water is so powerful that you might not even make it through one small rapid without losing some limbs! I think that Fall alone could power the country of Uganda!

(Photo: Non-doctored shot of what I got to look at for a few hours. A rainbow arched over Murchison Falls)

After taking close to a million photos (I'm a constant understater-probably more like a billion) we were ready to head back to Kampala. I didn't think there would be anything worthwhile to write about but I thought the chicken rush merited a small note. I'll explain; normally when you take a bus or even a matatu (taxi) there are stops along the road where there are people who will sell everything from "cold" water (I guess if it was chilled at some point in it's bottled existence, it is still appropriate to bill it as cold) to meat on a stick or roasted bananas. I can't say I have tried too many different things as I usually get irritated when it is shoved in my face and sometimes even feel slightly insulted when I politely say no and seconds later, the SAME GUY will come up to me and ask again like maybe I just wasn't sure that I didn't want the fresh pork on a stick. However, this was a new experience even for me. We pulled over on the side of the road next to several women selling fruits and vegetables because our driver wanted to purchase some tomatoes and avocados. After we politely declined three separate baskets of avocados, two children with tomatos and one women with tomatos AND avocados in the same weaved basket, they went back to their stands to wait for the next car. Minutes later I got to see what I can only describe as a chicken riot. Out of nowhere (I literally hadn't even seen these guys, I think they were all sleeping) about 20 men rush over to the other side of the road each holding 2-5 chickens! Try as I might, I still cannot understand the rationale behind this one. I attached the photos to allow you your best shot. Even if this car was going to their home to feed the entire village chicken, where would they all fit? Why would 20 fit and young men all sell chickens at the same spot and then overwhelm a car by pushing them all in the window? Even if they wanted to take 4 or 5, how would they even see what chickens were good when there are people fisting 4 sets of chicken legs and the chickens are all hanging upside-down smashed into each other? This is one I will have to think about for a little more time before I can give you my best response. I will tell you they did a very nice job of organizing themselves minutes later and lined up all the chickens on the ground so the driver could pick. I was way too fascinated at first to think of taking pictures while over 50 chickens were being held up to a window so my shots do not do the incredible scene much justice.

...Guess you had to be there.

(Photos: Mobile meat market. The boy in the first shot is one of the persistent ones who even after several men had left, he still thought he had a shot. I love how he sprinted to the car even though he was 5 minutes after everyone else!)

Why Travel? The People!

Are you one of those people with those "I have this one friend" narratives where you know you will impress people with the coolness of your not only interesting but true accounts? I am. Except I have about 1000 "my one friend" stories. Since coming to Uganda I have managed to pick up a few more and after thinking about it, I thought I would share by devoting a post to these types of people and my usual struggle to comprehend how I have had the fortune to meet them.

Interesting person #1 “Once I had to smuggle a scroll out of Tibet so Amnesty International would be able to document the atrocities committed against the Tibetan monks.” Me: Once I “smuggled” extra Splenda out of a Starbucks because I didn’t have any in my apartment so we’re pretty much the same.” 

Interesting person#2 “Well I never went to college but became a self-made millionaire with my own construction company. Then for retirement I had to choose between racing cars or doing volunteer work.” Me: “I went to college and majored in business only to quit my first job to teach English so we’re pretty much the same.” 

(Photo: Look closely. If you ever meet anyone from this group consider yourself blessed.)

Interesting person #3 “Oh weird, we will be in Dublin at the same time? Hmm I am from Ireland, let me give you an amazing tour of the city and you just tell me what you want to see and we will do it!” Me: “Wow thanks! Well I’m from the ‘burbs of Detroit so if you ever make it that way, I will give you a free walking tour also! Our half-day tour will encompass numerous identical houses and lawns, several fire hydrants, the (historical?!) Beaumont Hospital and Woodward Avenue. Keep your eye out for oversized cars and Hummers built for the overland destinations but driving on paved cement cement instead…It’s pretty much the same.” 

Interesting person #4 “Oh you have a layover in Dubai? Weird, I live there! Why don’t I just pick you up from the airport and show you the city and you can shower and eat at my apartment! Oh, you land at 12:30am and I wake up for work at 4:30? No problem!” Me: “THANKS! Oh, you fly through Detroit? No? Oh ok well enjoy your trip! (Pretty much the same) 

Interesting person #5: "Right after high school I moved to Madrid and now I am fluent in Spanish. Now as a flight attendant, I travel the world as part of my job!” Me: “Hmm after high school I took a semester of French and I know people who speak French sooo....we're pretty much the same."

(Photo: Emma, age 21. Trilingual and now working in Paris in the fashion industry. Paris as in France. France as in a country known for fashion. Poor girl probably cringes on the inside every time she sees my attempts at "new looks")

Ok you get the point. And so do I. I am not really (read: not even close to) the same but that’s not the important part; Not only is traveling amazing for the sights you see and the people you meet at your destinations, but the people you meet along the way! I have cometo believe that if you really think the best of people, it will be easy to find the best!  These are just some of the people I met while traveling and one person I was reacquainted with after about 12 years when she babysat my brothers!

Traveling lets you do that. I have to be honest and say that while I hope my future career involves traveling to reach places where I can help others, I would be lying if I didn’t say one of the best parts is meeting people along the way. Usually, my best stories are really second-hand stories where I never even EXPERIENCED the event! For example, I can only dream of something so exotic and exciting as photographing Bedouin tribes or living in Dubai but I get to hear of other people’s adventures and imagine myself able to do it one day! I could be famous for “my one friend” stories. If only I told them half as well as they did!

 (Photo: Janelle outside of the famous Island Hotel in Dubai...where she lives. It's like an automatic guarantee at being awesome.)

I’m only 25 so I don’t have a lot of advice to impart to others but if I thought I was capable of any type of “wisdom” I have learned it would be this; Never be closed-off to anyone regardless of age, gender or eccentricities on first meeting them. Ask a billion questions or maybe it’s wiser to say ask questions until their face looks like you asked a billion and finally, if at first they come off as rude or impolite, always assume it’s just a bad day. There have definitely been a few instances where after getting to know someone who first seemed awful turned out to be amazing. After looking back at it, I probably just smelled. Seriously.

Here are my favorite quotes (that I remember at this moment) from people I have met while traveling;

“I speak Farsi so it’s fun to watch Ahmadnijad on tv because I understand what he says”

“I am working with 30 Ugandans and then it’s me. I used to work for the U.N and (fill in a million other cool jobs). Now I live as an expat here and love it!”

(Photo: Clare, grew up with the Masai in Kenya, smuggled documents out of Tibet and now runs a Jamaican Villa, the usual.)

“Hmm I think this month I will save baby turtles in Costa Rica. I’ll be back in the U.S for _____(don't remember; it's some race that I find unimportant with cars and motors and stuff) and then I will be hiking Macchu Pichu”

“I was in Ethiopia and took a photo in a dark room where hundreds of people were sleeping on the floor. When I looked at the photo after, I noticed hundreds of eyes staring menacingly at me. I realized we needed to get out of there.”

“Oh this? This is my permit to drink in this area. Since it’s a Muslim country you need a license to drink but it only permits me to do so in this specific area of Dubai.”

“I'd like to visit the U.S but I can't imagine leaving my kids!” (spoken by an 18 year old director of an orphanage and street ministry program)

I may be biased but I think I have possibly met some of the coolest people EVER!

 (Photo: Suzi, a future bilingual executive and Umut, a trilingual Turkish clothing designer)

With nothing I can think of to compare, I have decided that my role can be to be “that friend,” the one who you tell others about and then they are aware of something they might otherwise not be so here is my “that friend” fact; When arriving in Uganda I had to use the bathroom which I knew would be a squat toilet. I was pointed towards the outhouse and had no idea what to expect so while confused, used a bathroom with a plastic floor and drain. Walking back upstairs, I was politely informed I had just used “the shower” and the toilet was next to it. I am that friend.

 (Photo: Eric, Jamie and Jo, 3 fabulous English teachers in Spain. After you talk with them for more than a minute, you will be completely blown away by how interesting they are!)

Thank You! 8/23/09

This update is a THANK YOU to all who have made this day possible. Today (FINALLY!) I had everything I needed to get the lady down the street started on her chapatti stand. This included the following;

Stove, wooden table, wooden display case with glass windows, frying pan, flat pan for (hopefully) future rolex making, coal bag the size of a large man, rolling pin, 6 bags of flour, baking powder, onions, cooking oil, plastic bags, and metal spatula/spoon

The cost for everything was less than $100.00 but for some here, that is a small fortune. There is no way she could have saved that amount of money by herself.

(Picture: Some of the supplies for our neighbor's new business including her table, glass case and coal stove.)

In a previous rambling update, I spoke a little bit about this woman and what I wanted to do. Like I mentioned, I see cases of extreme poverty every day and sometimes poverty to the point that people are literally starving. No one deserves to be in a situation like this and it is hard realizing I can’t help everyone at this very instant. One thing I have learned here is the difference between giving to help a person live verse giving to help a person live at this moment. After spending nearly a month here, I have definitely formed some opinions and feel confident being able to support what I believe. For example, some types of giving seem to be self-defeating. A lot of people come in and with a sense of guilt and feeling overwhelmed, want to give money to anyone they see. It may seem sweet and kind but stick around, and you see what unfortunately can happen. When I walk down the street in the morning, I will sometimes find the kids who can speak about 10 words of English-three of them happen to be “give me money” or, “give me something.” Of course when you see a child in rags holding out their skinny hand, you feel sad and maybe like you SHOULD give them something! But would you do that in the U.S or Spain or anywhere else? Probably not. These kids have homes, are being fed and may not have the luxuries we consider necessities but "mzungus" coming in and handing them candies and money leaves them believing they are entitled to it or that "all mzungus are rich and therefore should always give them something." What happens next is these kids are always looking for a handout rather than finding ways to earn it. Then there are the people who have very little but pride and so refuse to ask for anything even when they or their families are in need.

After talking to everyone from a Peace Corps Volunteer who has lived here for roughly 18 months, native Ugandans, Government health workers and fellow volunteers, it seems clear that the best way to give is in a way that there is a possibility your gift will go towards sustainability. I hope with the donation from my family and friends, I have helped a woman get the support she needed to get herself in a position to earn an income and now it is up to her to continue. Of course, following-up and making sure she is saving some of her profit for future purchases of supplies is important and I intend to help monitor that on a weekly basis while I am here (and of course buy some of the product!)

(Photo: "Jaja"-grandmother with her twin boys and her new business!)

I will keep you updated on what happens but regardless, you should know when receiving her new stove, table, etc. she became so overwhelmed she started to cry. In a culture where emotions are not always readily shared especially with non-family members (unless you are 3 year old Debbie, my boss' daughter going for a world record for sobbing) this woman likely had one of the most hopeful and wonderful days of her life!

Jinja Weekend

To let off steam and get a great chance to hang out and have some fun, the volunteers from The Real Uganda as well as my friends from KACCAD Brooke and Chris decided to head to Jinja to do a day of white water rafting on the Nile! It was especially cool because at this time next year, the opportunity will be gone; a dam will be built to provide water powered energy to more villages. Of course, this is a good thing but these incredible rapids will no longer be up for rafting. Besides being the last opportunity ever to raft this area, its’ the NILE! The birthplace of civilization, the most well known river in the world, the, well, the NILE!

This in mind, we all met in Mukono Friday night at stayed at The Real Uganda guesthouse. Dinner was amazing street food including rolexes, chicken, chapatti, and roasted corn which apparently I am the only one who likes! Instead of boiling the corn and then roasting it, they just go right to roasting which leaves the taste slightly chewy but tough. I think it’s great where everyone else is not a fan!

Saturday morning we walked to the way too pricey for us hotel in Mukono where we were picked up for the trip to Jinja. At this point I jumped in the front crammed between the driver and another passenger, both Ugandan men who happened to notice the book I was reading discussing AIDS and why during the 90’s the rate of transmission went dramatically down in Uganda while shooting up in almost every other Eastern African country. That led to a great discussion where I was asked if people in the U.S had a cure for AIDS and if they had to take drugs. I had to keep telling them it was JUST my opinion since they seemed to be regarding what I said as medical gospel when it came to future HIV/AIDS prevention and awareness problems and issues. It was really interesting to hear their viewpoint and encouraging to listen to an open discussion where did not seem uncomfortable to talk about it!

Arriving in Jinja, we had breakfast INCLUDING real coffee (with milk!) and listened to one of the guides explain our day. I guess at this point I should mention we were doing Grade 5 rafting which is the highest level allowed before safety becomes a serious issue. Anything higher than grade 5 is considered “unraftable.” I shoud also mention my incredible experience in the water. And by experience I mean lack of. A guide asked all of us if we had been rafting before. Feeling a little nervous and wanting to see his reaction I volunteered the information that while I have never rafted before, I HAVE been tubing twice and paddle-boating once! He didn’t seem impressed and that made me a little nervous. I started envisioning my National Geographic Most Amazing Moments video where people are plowing through rapids crashing over their heads and according to the narrator in an Australian accent, “inCREDibly Surviving!!” Whatever. I was excited!

(Picture: Rafters on the Nile. Interesting to note the contrast between those rafting and the women of the village washing their clothes on the bank. However it is important to note that NRE the group I went with DOES give a major discount to Ugandan citizens and residents of Jinja.)

We ended up lucking out fitting all 6 of us in one raft with our Australian instructor Johnnie. (There were 7 of us but Chris had already been rafting and decided that he should try out the golf clubs a former volunteer had left at KACCAD on the links!) I was a little nervous as we went through training when I realized my jacket was a little big and it was hard for me to get back in the boat because the jacket would come up to my neck. Then, when he explained about the “get down” cry and what it meant, I wondered if international insurance would accept a claim where I voluntarily jump into a situation lacking experience. (Actually, they do!) To make it short, our boat was awesome. Apparently it’s very rare to not tip and yet we managed to do it even on rapids called “50/50” and “waterfall” which is in fact, a small waterfall you go over. I had a great time and could not believe I swam and rafted the Nile river!

Arriving back to the hostal I found out another perk was showering over the Nile where you are surrounded by three walls but one is knocked out so while you shower, you are literally overlooking the Nile. It’s a pretty cool experience and is wild when you think about how you are near the mouth of one of the greatest rivers in the world that starts in Uganda and ends in Egypt!

(Photo: The view from the shower in Jinja. The river below just happens to be the Nile, source of life. No big deal)

If anyone has the opportunity I highly recommend this experience. Going with the company, Nile River Explorers (NRE) also gives you the satisfaction of knowing your money is helping the community. Most of the safety river guides-the guys who ride in mini kayaks and are always there to help rafts that tip or people that go over are some of the best kayakers in the world. Some have competed and won really prestigious championships throughout the world and they are from Uganda. Not only that, they support soft-power education, a program founded by an Englishwoman to use tourist dollars to improve the education system in the nearby communities. After marrying the head of NRE, the program really took off and you see signs everywhere showing where soft-power aid has been given to schools and neighborhoods.

The other must? Trying a rolex burrito. Finally, some guys with savvy business sense. Everywhere you go you can buy a rolex-chapatti with eggs and usually cabbage and tomoato. However here, they give you options including diced avocado, meat, and potato to add to your rolex! It’s a few 1000USH more depending on your preference but absolutely worth it and very filling!

Again, my weekend was amazing and it was really nice to spend some time with the volunteers who are leaving. (Have a blast in Zanzibar Greg and Todd!!)

Outside Look at Life in the Slums

With no testing this week, I asked Patrick, head of Raising Up Hope for Uganda if I could go with him today when he visited the street kids in the Kampala slum. We agreed to meet at 9:30am so following the rule of Ugandan time, we headed out around 10:15 into Kampala. The minute we arrived, I realized I was about to witness a new level of poverty and sadness I had not yet experienced.

Walking into the first muddy and dirty street lined with huts and and stands made from anything found on the street (pieces of aluminum, wood, corrugated metal, etc) we were greeted by several kids calling out to “Uncle Patrick.” I immediately found my arm was now the resting spot for three little children’s hands and my own hand was now in control of an older boy who began to walk in front of me and lead me down the street. I had brought my purse carrying my camera, water, and money to get home and became extremely contienscious remembering all the advice I have received throughout my life regarding street kids and theft. Concentrating on my purse, I allowed the kids to lead me forward closely following Uncle Patrick.

Stopping at the first “house” Patrick stepped into the entrance and talked to a few of the boys inside. Some peered out and stared at me and it was easy to see that they were clearly using drugs. Less than a minute later, Patrick told me we could head onto the next house as this one was not appropriate to stay in due to the fumes and drug-use inside. I wasn’t surprised to hear this and can’t imagine many of the older children coping without some form of mind altering chemicals to help them escape the reality that is their life.

The second house was about the same size meaning the size of a nice walk-in closet. These rooms were specifically rented by Patrick to keep kids off the street at night. Unlike many big cities in the U.S, it is illegal to sleep on the street here and the police tend to enforce that by beating anyone found out at night. Therefore, these two small rooms usually hold around 80-90 kids every night.

(Photo: A look out onto the street from the "house" in the Kampala slum)

Walking into the second house I heard Patrick visibly upset talking to two women in the doorframe. Apparently and without any shame, they had kicked out many of the kids the night before and slept in it themselves. However frustrating it may be, it’s hard to demonize these women as anyone who fought to sleep in that room clearly was also suffering. However, these rooms were specifically rented for the street children and that room was for the younger ones which is why they were able to kick so many out.

After they left, I walked in and took in my surroundings; The room, if this makes sense, is depressingly hopeful. It’s two-toned walls are dirty with some graffiti. Paint is chipping everywhere and bugs are visible crawling up the walls. The dirt and grime on the walls can be ignored if only for a minute when your eyes zero in on two things-the chalkboard where in the top left corner a previous bible lesson has not been fully erased and the handprints. On two of the walls Patrick and the other Raising Up Hope workers have put their handprints along with their name around the top half of the room. Near the middle the words “Trust in God” are written.

(Photo: The view into the room rented for younger boys. On the wall behind graffiti you can see their handprints. To the left is a chalkboard where words still remain from their last bible lesson.)

There is one bench where I can see the feet of a boy sleeping underneath. Patrick and I go sit on top of the bench and while the kids come in and sit-down, he begins to take out the supplies he brought in his backpack; gauze, cotton, scissors, ointment, and wrapping tape. Last time he came he ran out of the hydrogen peroxide he uses to treat the wounds so telling me to talk to the kids so they can practice their English, he leaves. I am in a room with 7 kids between the ages of about 4 and 15 and I have no idea what to do. Only one speaks enough English to communicate with so I immediately look at him as my new friend. “Hello what is your name?” is my first question. He tells me his name is Joseph (he really gave me a Ugandan name that I interpreted as Joseph and he let me roll with it) and then asked me mine. Meanwhile, there is a boy behind him looking at me and pointing at his chest, head, and finally writing something in the ground. I decide to ignore it for the moment and focus on my translator. He asks me if I have a father. “Yes,” I tell him. He tells me he doesn’t and then points to the sky wanting me to understand he is in heaven. I have no idea what to say so I just tell him, “Yes, but he is watching you” and he smiles. Another kid sits down next to me and looks like he is in pain. He pulls down his shirt to show me his should and Joseph tells me he was burned in the fire on the street. They cook and burn garbage everywhere and apparently when this child was walking by, one of the fires burst and burned him on his shoulder and legs. He is clearly uncomfortable and keeps touching the supplies Patrick brought. Now, I notice the boy who earlier was in the room is outside on the ground and still looking at me. He is again, pointing at his chest, head, then pretending to write something on the ground. “What is he doing?” I asked Joseph. Joseph tells me, “he is telling you he wants to go to school.”

(Photo: Patrick treating one of the street children's wounds with water, cotton balls, and hydrogen peroxide.)

I’m so uncomfortable with this situation that I start to almost feel a little panicky. I can’t communicate with these kids and I just want Patrick to come back and start helping as clearly I feel I can’t do anything that will improve their situation. Minutes later, Patrick is back and following him is a boy with a small tub of clean water he places on the floor. The first kid sits down and Patrick gets to work. He cleans the wound and put ointment on it. In my lack of medical knowledge and little to work with, my task is to rip the cotton to form cotton balls which he uses to clean the wounds. One little boy starts to carefully “organize” them on the floor so I start to hand them to him first and he seems to like the responsibility.

The 4th boy that sits down is older and immediately I notice his knee. Apparently he had been sleeping on the street one night when the police came and rounded all the boys up to take to jail. He tried to fight to avoid getting in the car and was shot by one of the policemen in the knew. He knee is literally flapping and looks pretty disgusting. Patrick tells me how they took him to the clinic after it happened and the bullet is out. And, disgusting as it looks, it is much improved and getting better. Wow. I am surprised at myself for how calm I remain and how I voluntarily watch him clean it.

(Photo: One of the young boys getting treated for burns on his shoulder. Patrick treated his raw skin with ointment and hydrogen peroxide which clearly hurt. Although grimacing in pain and crying silently, he never complained. I took this right after he was finished.)

When all the kids are treated, we leave and walk down the street to where two women are filling up plastic bags with beans and posho. Patrick tells me I am going to help them and I sit down to put in the rice. Its steaming hot and I scoop it out of a giant metal pot with a plastic bowl and plop it in the bag. It looks like a stew with the juice from the beans mixing up the rice and posho. The two- seconds I have to look up, I see we are right outside of a barber shop where business is going on as usual. It’s insane. Here we are sitting on stools with enough food for 50 kids being shoveled into bags while about 15 kids watch and right behind us is a man getting his head shaved and listening to the radio. It seems so bizarre that chaos surrounds the calm pockets of the slum where sights like these are a part of life and life continues…

We get back to the home (I keep fighting what to call it, a home, room, shack?) and I ask Patrick if I can take some pictures while he passes out the food and two of his helpers pass out the containers of juice. He encourages it and so I just kind of watch as all the kids get in a line. I help pass out the food to the kids who are inside of the room but Patrick stops me-5 of them live at home and although this might be the best meal they have seen in a few days, the food is for the street kids.

Insane, sad, overwhelming, hopeful. There is no way any one word can sum up an experience like this. I am inspired by Patrick and hopeful for the kids but at the same time overwhelmed with the situation and discouraged by their odds at getting a better life. I came in protecting my bag like I did every day on the metro of Madrid and leave feeling a little ashamed that not once did a child try to look inside or take anything. They all gave me hugs and thanked my like I had done something for them when all I had done is smile at them, give them a hug, and take their pictures.

As this was only morning/early afternoon, I had more to write about but for now, this is enough.

Where Am I!?!?

Kampala shopping list;

2 tshirts size: for a small 11/2 yr old boys but big enough to last 2 years.
Warm peanut butter
Rolling pin
Sanitary Chapatti plate
2 small kids toys
salt bread
gum
True list of things I was searching for when I headed back to Kampala this afternoon. I went to meet Leslie, the head of The Real Uganda, the grassroots organization I am working for and who placed me at KACCAD for coffee. I read about a place called Café Pap in my guidebook which got a 9 for wifi and good coffee so I suggested it. Of course, Leslie knew where it was and told me she goes there all the time for coffee. Basically that means it must be good! It was really nice to sit down and get feedback and have her give me advice or suggestions on things I can do to improve my time here helping others. That is definitely one thing I am so grateful for; going through GVN I knew I would have someone on the ground in Uganda who lived there and knew the people. Leslie has been so helpful and clearly cares about what she is doing.

After a great Americano and discussion, Leslie left me to check out their wifi and possibly another item on their menu! Their food was expensive so I decided to go with just one more coffee and tried the latte. Best. Decision. Ever. And I never EVER exaggerate…but seriously. I drink the flaky shells of coffee beans for breakfast in the morning or if splurging on instant,

consider that a huge upgrade so imagine my joy. Now this really is true. I sat and admired it for 20 minutes wanting to take a picture but not wanting to embarrass myself doing so with people on both sides of me. During this time I was also on the computer and even debated via facebook chat with my friend Kathryn if I should take one! The evidence will show you I submitted myself to an embarrassing moment and took the opportunity to get a photo of art in a cup. Even when the connection accidently was terminated 5 minutes early on my internet session, I was feeling so overly indulgent, it almost seemed righteous that something would inconvenience me a little! But, I’m not done. I left to walk over to Garden City Shopping Center (it’s like Mzungu HQ, you find all the tourists there because it caters to western taste) to meet Brooke and Chris for dinner. We had all gone to Kampala for different reasons but wanted to meet up to eat. There is a place called New York Kitchen which everyone talks about and I really wanted to try. It serves pizza, salads, calzones and basically incredible food impossible to find anywhere else. The food was great though pricey for our standards back in Bulenga but worth it. I honestly felt like I wasn’t even in Uganda today which also made me feel a little guilty. I did not come here to have a day this incredible and delicious and it’s hard to justify it when I know tomorrow I go back to reporting how people don’t have enough to eat or can’t send their kids to school.

So I guess I will try to enjoy and appreciate moments like that without forgetting what I came here for. I will also use all the nutritious variety I experienced to help me get energized for tomorrow!

You should have a boda-boda driver in your "top five" and other things I learned today 8/17/09

There is a point in any new experience where you feel relaxed enough to ease up a little without feeling comfortable. It’s after you pass the point of feeling like you’re not in control or could lose it at any second. Then, before you get to the point of comfort and are acclimated, you hit that stage where you get a little confidence, feeling like you can handle the challenges and you may actually like not knowing what’s coming! THAT is where I am and I love it!

I know enough to be ready for some really sad mornings hearing from concerned HIV positive clients worried about their children when they are gone or getting enough to eat. I know to expect hugs when I walk into the orphanage and to see kids playing with a few bricks, a stick and a mesh cage having as much fun as a little American boy who just got a new remote controlled car. I also know at all times where my flashlight, phone, and keychain light are so when the power goes out or my boda driver makes a wrong turn on the way back, I’m going to be able to see what I am putting into my bowl for dinner and skip over the giant pothole filled with mud walking towards my home.

(Photo: A fruit stand near my home. I learned you don't need a lot of anything besides creativity when it comes to entrepreneurship!)

What I don’t know are things like how to best help all the people I meet so obviously in need or even when I do, how to get the results I want! I still don’t know which store within two miles sells diet coke or where I can buy peanut butter and I also don’t know how in the world I am going to wash the pee out of my jeans from the pantsless twins at the orphanage staging a sneak attack before I could hand them off to someone else!

“Knowledge is Power” but it can also lead to settling. Settling for being comfortable rather than pushing yourself to the next challenge. Since I view myself as slightly lazy or complacent, I try to keep myself in a place where I am forced to learn new things every day!

A few things I learned today:

Wasuze otya means “good morning” when you don’t want to say oli otya which is “how was your night?” This is super useful when you are just passing someone who you don’t want to stop and converse with but you don’t want to ignore either. I learned this from Derrick’s 3 year old daughter. Technically I learned it 3 days ago but I just got what she was finally saying to me every morning.

A charcoal stove that is big enough to make chapatti costs less than the pan that goes on top. I bought a small stove today for the woman I want to help start a chappatti stand for herself. She needs to generate enough income to support caring for her grandsons and hopefully be able to visit her brother in the hospital. Even with bargaining, I only managed to bring down the price of the pan 500USH and it was STILL more than the stove!

I don’t like noodles for dinner. Or lunch. Or really ever. I have had enough noodles to sustain whatever part of my brain would ever crave them for years.

I really like the kids at the orphanage.

I also have favorites; Carlos, the kid who for whatever reason loves Spanish and wants to learn. I teach him a few words every time I come and he knows them the next day. He’s also really smart in general and just an overall great kid. Vic, whose real name is Victoria and whom everyone else calls Victor (because that’s somehow more girly than Vic?!?) or Victoria even though she likes Vic. Vic it is for me! Rebecca because she’s just really smart and I am so impressed with how eager she seems to learn. John Bosco because he’s three and the chillest three year old I have ever met. Plus he played catch with me. And his name is John Bosco. And finally the little Rachel (there are 2) who is the cutest kid ever. So sweet and adorable!

(Photo: Carlos, one of my favorites asked me to take his picture "looking smart")

Apparently you can tie a string around a finger and it will fall off. At least that’s what is happening at Bbiri clinic.

You can use a fork for anything. That includes making eggs, opening cans of instant coffee and later as the utensil to stir the muck up in the bottom of your cup.

And finally- it is good to make nice with at least one boda-boda driver. Geoffrey is now a valued contact saved to my phone. Even though the first time we met, he started asking me if I knew Jesus WHILE driving and WHILE turning around to hear my answers, he gives me a fair mzungu price to the orphanage and back everyday. Now, I no longer have to “compromise” with the others where they look at me straight in the eye and try to charge me 4 times what a local pays. Please.

All of these pieces of knowledge have different shelf-lives for usefulness but I still love knowing that I learned them!

(Photo: Brooke using a tupperware container as her "cup" and a fork as her "teaspoon" makes for some decent morning coffee!)

Bargains at the Equator

Amazing weekend! On Saturday morning, Brooke, Chris and I met up with Rachel and took a matata (van taxi) into Kampala. There we were meeting Greg and Todd, 2 other volunteers from California who work in another area of Uganda. Morgan, (also from Cali) was also coming but a bit later. I met Morgan, Greg and Todd through The Real Uganda when we all stayed for a night at the volunteer house in Mukono. We had decided to meet in Kampala since it was a convenient middle point for all of us. Not to mention it would be nice to get a little bit of city life, functioning internet, food, and a night out!

We booked a night at a hostal called Red Chili which is in every guidebook and known by any mzungu remotely near Kampala. It’s pretty incredible when you are living with few luxuries; a shower, a flushable toilet that you can sit on, DSTV, cold drinks, western foods and internet! We all stayed in the mixed dorms-the cheapest option and therefore the total price was a whopping 12,000 USH, roughly $6.00. It was great to have a little time to unwind and actually feel like the dirt was coming off my body instead of feeling like I am just redispersing it.

(Picture: Typical hostal dorm room complete with your very own mosquito net!)

We stayed there for awhile before heading out for the night and were shown a place for dinner (by our lovely tour guide Chris who navigated the streets of Kampala like he had lived there for 20 years) not yet in the Bradt Travel Guide which I guarantee will/should be in any future books! Tuhende Safari Lodge, run by a native Ugandan who spent 35 years living in California is the owner. For 13,900 USH, you get an appetizer that appeared to be something like pita filled with different vegetables and served with a chili salsa. Following 3 plates of that for 8 people, we each got a bowl of onion and crouton soup. As a main course, you have a choice of several options including steak, several chicken or fish dishes and 2 vegetarian options. I choice one of the vegetable dishes and it was absolutely amazing. Since vegetable are considered a poor man’s choice or an afterthought here, (besides potatos, beans, and cassava, a root vegetable) finding anything more than a miniscule piece of tomato in your pasta or rice is a miracle. I was in heaven. Collectively we probably said “this is sooo good” or in my case, “this is unreal” about 50 times.

(Picture: The group of volunteers at Tuhende Safari Lodge in Kampala for Dinner

Later on we went to a bar called Parkside Inn where I got killed in the Ugandan pool game. Here I got to try my first baggie of alcohol. Since I am not a beer drinker and everything else gets a little more pricey, I was eyeing the sodas when I noticed on the chalkboard it said “Beckham, 700USH. I decided I had to try it and ordered one with a Krest Bitter Lemon soda. For those fortunate enough to have missed out on this opportunity in life, Beckham is gin in a baggie which I now realize I have seen many people sipping OUT OF A STRAW on the street. Due to the poor balancing skills of a plastic bag on a table, the half I managed to have before spilling the rest left me pretty sure I wouldn’t order it again. We left to go to Effendy, a bar/club likelier to be found somewhere in the U.S rather than anywhere else in Uganda The music was loud and the drinks overpriced but it had an outdoor area in the back and it was nice to have fun!

Sunday Brooke, Greg, Todd, Morgan, Rachel and I headed to the area in Uganda directly on the line of the equator. We were warned it was two ugly circles where a bunch of mzungus go to take cheesy photos. If you know me, you realize hearing that, I was DEFINITELY going! I love the cheesy tourist spots just as much as I love the off the beaten track locations. We really got lucky with our timing. It poured almost the entire 1 ½ hour drive and just before we arrived, the rain stopped! We got out to a clear sky and the picturesque view of two, clearly out of place circles that you could step in and shamelessy take numerous photos of yourself. Of course I did just that and loved every second.

Since it’s clear this is a tourist hotspot, there are also several stores that sell everything from postcards and miniature animals to incredible artwork and handmade instruments. I had mistakenly put several 1000USH in my wallet for the weekend believing them to be 10,000 bills so I had NO money to be spending so I took on the roll of “admirer.” I still loved looking at all the incredible crafts made by hand and got some good ideas for a few souvenirs for my family!

(Picture: Duh. THe Equator! Climbing up is harder than it looks though. Apparently other lame tourists have done the same thing so it gets tricky when the letters "D and "A" are loose!)

While my adventure up to that point had been frugal, I assumed lunch would be where I would spend the last of my money. In fact, I ended up spending less that $1.00 on a great lunch! We decided to skip the café near the shops where everybody else went and walked about 20 minutes down the road to get some local food. Of course everyone stared and we had kids come up and watch us buy some food at one of the stores.

Here is what we came out with for about 2500 USH for 6 people; 2 avocados, chipatti, “pancakes,” (which I can best describe as fried unrisen banana bread that’s about the size of the “O” your hand makes when you give the “ok” signal) sambosas (trianble shaped bread filled with rice, chickpeas or meat,) and mini bananas. I also got a the delicious Krest Bitter Lemon soda which cost me more than my meal at a whopping 1000USH (50 cents!)

This post will end like it started; amazing weekend!

From Cows to Wheelbarrows. You Know, the Usual.

I woke up today ready to head out on more home visits only to realize that at least around here, Friday seems to be an extension of the weekend! It turned out great for me since I then decided I needed a slight workout and headed to the spring to fill up 2 jerrycans. I waited only about 15 minutes today as there were less people and when I came back up, Chris, the engineer (or artist which he reminds me) had finally woken up from what he refers to as his “creative time” and agreed to go to the spring with me to do round 2. However, first we stopped at the site of the work-in-progress volunteer house he has been tasked to build. Once finished, this will really help out KACCAD because they will no longer have to pay rent on their property as they own the land.

(Photo: The extra builder)

Arriving, our goal was to film a little bit of Chris’ progress for a piece he is doing to show other engineers at his alma mater, Bath University. Not surprisingly, we had one bull-horned cow strolling through the rooms and a cow-herder telling us something in Luganda which we could only politely nod and respond with, Oliotya saabo (roughly translates to “how is the day sir) a few times. After finally getting a few clips of the house, we headed to the spring the route we believed was the back way. The back way turned into a pleasant 45 minute walk through villagers’ backyards filled with goats, chickens, children and animal poop and unidentified plants I am hoping are not going to give me rashes. With enough water now to last the day, I decided the rest of my morning would be spent doing something productive. I organized my supplies that I will be using at the orphanage and then gathered and completed all 50 forms for the children regarding their HIV results.

After lunch, Brooke, Rachel and I headed to the orphanage to spend the afternoon with the kids. When we got there, it was pretty cool to see some of them literally jump up and run to give us hugs. Even though it was Rachel’s first time there, they all welcomed her as well. I asked Sam what they needed help with and the task of the day was grading their exams. It was not difficult but really time consuming even with both of us and it was nice to know we were able to do something for the guys that would allow them to relax a little more this weekend.

While we were busy with that, super nurse Brooke had found one of the little girls, Rebecca laying down with what she correctly believed was an extremely high fever. Even with my limited knowledge, I could tell her temperature was lamplight warm. (Don’t act like you don’t know-the temperature you get after you put the thermometer under the lamp to skip school!) Brooke decided to take her to the clinic and later that night, came back to tell us Rebecca had reached 40.5 Celsius (105 degrees Fahrenheit!!) As this was a local clinic, the level of care is usually not the same as what one might expect in the U.S or any developed country. They gave her a shot of quinine and a Vitamin B supplement which seems to be given for any type of ailment here. Brooke is going to follow up at 7 tomorrow morning to get her another shot and some more medicine.

(Photo: these kids made the wheelbarrow their clown car! The older boys in the back are typical 11 year olds posing for the camera)

Sitting here typing on my Macbook, charging my ipod and about to get into a bed I don’t have to share with 3 or 4 other people, I can’t help but think about how being born in one place verse another can so drastically affect everything in your life. Not only your physical comforts but your health and education. However, as depressing as that can be to think about when I am here looking at poverty and destitution every day, Uganda has given me insight on how I truly control my happiness and attitude. It’s amazing how being here allows me to appreciate things that I have always taken for granted like being able to use to toilet without friendly visitors (flies) all around you or a shower where water comes out when you turn a handle and you can even ADJUST the temperature! When a kid who has been wearing the same outfit for 4 days interrupts his game of wheelbarrow racing (not the one you’re thinking but where they cram 4 kids IN a wheelbarrow and race it around) to greet you with a hug it seems so obvious that material things while nice, cannot make a person joyful. I hope when I got back to a world where drama means LC leaves "The Hills" or starving means I didn't eat breakfast, I can remember some of the things people who most would say have nothing were able to teach me.

(Photo: The REAL wheelbarrow race you never got to do in grade school!)

The positives and negatives of an HIV mobile clinic 8/13/09

(Picture: Some of the kids from the orphanage getting their numbers for testing and paperwork completed. These kids were incredibly brave getting their blood drawn!!)

2nd week for HIV testing. This time, the testing was done in the village of Nankawadde where we set up at the Kawuuzi health clinic. I had talked to Patrick, the director at the orphanage and was really hoping the kids would come. I wasn’t sure if they would be able to do it but at least this one was in walking distance so there was a chance!

Yesterday I bet Sam 500 USH 

(about 25 cents) that we wouldn’t be leaving for the clinic until after 8am which was the “official” start time on all the posters we had so carefully placed around the village. I have learned the art of Ugandan time here. Ugandan time was explained to me like this; Time is about being comfortable. You don’t rush because it it not comfortable to have a time commitment. If you are uncomfortable at any given moment, your aim is to be comfortable with whatever you do next.

(Picture: Patrick our lab technician)

This leads to many leisurely tea breaks and casual chats with people on the road. With that in mind, I decided 8 would be the perfect time to wake up and I could then be ready to leave by what I imagined would be the departure time of 9…ish. I learn quickly so when we left at about 9:30, I felt very comfortable with my bet won and my morning relaxing!

When we arrived it was a little different story. By the time the counselors and nurses arrived at their comfortable time of 11:00, I had already given one presentation on Safe sex and abstinence to a group of about 25 people and was about to start on the healthy eating presentation when I noticed that there were a few important parts of the testing that had been forgotten. Namely, the numbered cards that each person should receive to help keep the results a little more confidential.

After asking around for paper and getting blank stares Brooke, the volunteer nurse, ripped some out of her notebook and we quickly made 57 pieces assuming that would be enough. We were only off by about 77 people! Once we started, we did not stop until 4:30pm. We did not take a break for food, water, the bathroom, anything. It was literally one after the other. My job was to see the person first, take their number and record it on their paper as well as our records and then fill out their information on another sheet where later we record results. Then, the patient would go to Noreen, a nurse from Uganda who would draw their blood. Brooke would take the sample and put it in the test tube and a lab worker then analyzed the results. Finally, I would have to record whether the results were positive or negative on the papers after they testing had been done. If it seems time consuming, it is. I could have easily written a novel with all the writing I did today!

The major work came when at around 1:00pm, 50 children came from the orphanage to get tested. Not only did we have a stream of adults still coming, we had 50 kids as young as 3 who needed testing. I was so proud of how well they did and most of them didn’t even cry! Remember, this testing was done in a poor village in Uganda. There were not separate rooms or to be more specific, there were NO rooms. The testing was done outside in the back of the health clinic. Therefore, all the children could see the needle going into the arm of the child in from of them-I can’t believe how tough they were! It was so cute to see the older kids comforting the younger ones who were crying after the results. It was truly amazing to see how brave and caring they all were! After they were finished and knowing they had at least a 30 minute walk back, they did not want to wait for the results. I was then officially entrusted to bring all the results back to the orphanage. Now, of course due to confidentiality, I won’t tell you the specifics but suffice it to say, I was VERY pleased with the kids results! They have enough challenges in their lives without having to deal with an awful disease like HIV/AIDS.

Finally returning back to KACCAD, we arrived to find we still had to water. It was my first exciting excursion down to the local spring where you bring your jerrycans and fill them up with running water from a stream somewhere in Uganda! The route is directly downhill so on the positive side, I had a workout to look forward to! I went with Brooke and Sam who showed us the way. Apparently, 5:00 is social hour at the spring and we waited about 40 minutes before it was our turn to fill up the jerrycans. After all 5 were filled, we began the no water workout and seriously, it’s no joke. When you are lugging two full cans, one in each hand and scaling your way up a dirt path, it can get a little tiring! At least I know I will appreciate my shower/pour a bucket over my head time a little more tonight!
Hopefully we will get water tomorrow as I desperately need to wash my clothes! That will probably mean 2 trips down to the stream but on the plus side, Saturday Chris, Brooke and I are headed into Kampala and are going to stay overnight in a hostal for backpackers which to us at this moment is like the Hilton! They have cold drinks, a pool table, and free internet! HEAVEN

(Picture: Confirming results with the nurse and technician before sending the confidential forms to the counselors who give the actual results to the clients.)