Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Outside Look at Life in the Slums

With no testing this week, I asked Patrick, head of Raising Up Hope for Uganda if I could go with him today when he visited the street kids in the Kampala slum. We agreed to meet at 9:30am so following the rule of Ugandan time, we headed out around 10:15 into Kampala. The minute we arrived, I realized I was about to witness a new level of poverty and sadness I had not yet experienced.

Walking into the first muddy and dirty street lined with huts and and stands made from anything found on the street (pieces of aluminum, wood, corrugated metal, etc) we were greeted by several kids calling out to “Uncle Patrick.” I immediately found my arm was now the resting spot for three little children’s hands and my own hand was now in control of an older boy who began to walk in front of me and lead me down the street. I had brought my purse carrying my camera, water, and money to get home and became extremely contienscious remembering all the advice I have received throughout my life regarding street kids and theft. Concentrating on my purse, I allowed the kids to lead me forward closely following Uncle Patrick.

Stopping at the first “house” Patrick stepped into the entrance and talked to a few of the boys inside. Some peered out and stared at me and it was easy to see that they were clearly using drugs. Less than a minute later, Patrick told me we could head onto the next house as this one was not appropriate to stay in due to the fumes and drug-use inside. I wasn’t surprised to hear this and can’t imagine many of the older children coping without some form of mind altering chemicals to help them escape the reality that is their life.

The second house was about the same size meaning the size of a nice walk-in closet. These rooms were specifically rented by Patrick to keep kids off the street at night. Unlike many big cities in the U.S, it is illegal to sleep on the street here and the police tend to enforce that by beating anyone found out at night. Therefore, these two small rooms usually hold around 80-90 kids every night.

(Photo: A look out onto the street from the "house" in the Kampala slum)

Walking into the second house I heard Patrick visibly upset talking to two women in the doorframe. Apparently and without any shame, they had kicked out many of the kids the night before and slept in it themselves. However frustrating it may be, it’s hard to demonize these women as anyone who fought to sleep in that room clearly was also suffering. However, these rooms were specifically rented for the street children and that room was for the younger ones which is why they were able to kick so many out.

After they left, I walked in and took in my surroundings; The room, if this makes sense, is depressingly hopeful. It’s two-toned walls are dirty with some graffiti. Paint is chipping everywhere and bugs are visible crawling up the walls. The dirt and grime on the walls can be ignored if only for a minute when your eyes zero in on two things-the chalkboard where in the top left corner a previous bible lesson has not been fully erased and the handprints. On two of the walls Patrick and the other Raising Up Hope workers have put their handprints along with their name around the top half of the room. Near the middle the words “Trust in God” are written.

(Photo: The view into the room rented for younger boys. On the wall behind graffiti you can see their handprints. To the left is a chalkboard where words still remain from their last bible lesson.)

There is one bench where I can see the feet of a boy sleeping underneath. Patrick and I go sit on top of the bench and while the kids come in and sit-down, he begins to take out the supplies he brought in his backpack; gauze, cotton, scissors, ointment, and wrapping tape. Last time he came he ran out of the hydrogen peroxide he uses to treat the wounds so telling me to talk to the kids so they can practice their English, he leaves. I am in a room with 7 kids between the ages of about 4 and 15 and I have no idea what to do. Only one speaks enough English to communicate with so I immediately look at him as my new friend. “Hello what is your name?” is my first question. He tells me his name is Joseph (he really gave me a Ugandan name that I interpreted as Joseph and he let me roll with it) and then asked me mine. Meanwhile, there is a boy behind him looking at me and pointing at his chest, head, and finally writing something in the ground. I decide to ignore it for the moment and focus on my translator. He asks me if I have a father. “Yes,” I tell him. He tells me he doesn’t and then points to the sky wanting me to understand he is in heaven. I have no idea what to say so I just tell him, “Yes, but he is watching you” and he smiles. Another kid sits down next to me and looks like he is in pain. He pulls down his shirt to show me his should and Joseph tells me he was burned in the fire on the street. They cook and burn garbage everywhere and apparently when this child was walking by, one of the fires burst and burned him on his shoulder and legs. He is clearly uncomfortable and keeps touching the supplies Patrick brought. Now, I notice the boy who earlier was in the room is outside on the ground and still looking at me. He is again, pointing at his chest, head, then pretending to write something on the ground. “What is he doing?” I asked Joseph. Joseph tells me, “he is telling you he wants to go to school.”

(Photo: Patrick treating one of the street children's wounds with water, cotton balls, and hydrogen peroxide.)

I’m so uncomfortable with this situation that I start to almost feel a little panicky. I can’t communicate with these kids and I just want Patrick to come back and start helping as clearly I feel I can’t do anything that will improve their situation. Minutes later, Patrick is back and following him is a boy with a small tub of clean water he places on the floor. The first kid sits down and Patrick gets to work. He cleans the wound and put ointment on it. In my lack of medical knowledge and little to work with, my task is to rip the cotton to form cotton balls which he uses to clean the wounds. One little boy starts to carefully “organize” them on the floor so I start to hand them to him first and he seems to like the responsibility.

The 4th boy that sits down is older and immediately I notice his knee. Apparently he had been sleeping on the street one night when the police came and rounded all the boys up to take to jail. He tried to fight to avoid getting in the car and was shot by one of the policemen in the knew. He knee is literally flapping and looks pretty disgusting. Patrick tells me how they took him to the clinic after it happened and the bullet is out. And, disgusting as it looks, it is much improved and getting better. Wow. I am surprised at myself for how calm I remain and how I voluntarily watch him clean it.

(Photo: One of the young boys getting treated for burns on his shoulder. Patrick treated his raw skin with ointment and hydrogen peroxide which clearly hurt. Although grimacing in pain and crying silently, he never complained. I took this right after he was finished.)

When all the kids are treated, we leave and walk down the street to where two women are filling up plastic bags with beans and posho. Patrick tells me I am going to help them and I sit down to put in the rice. Its steaming hot and I scoop it out of a giant metal pot with a plastic bowl and plop it in the bag. It looks like a stew with the juice from the beans mixing up the rice and posho. The two- seconds I have to look up, I see we are right outside of a barber shop where business is going on as usual. It’s insane. Here we are sitting on stools with enough food for 50 kids being shoveled into bags while about 15 kids watch and right behind us is a man getting his head shaved and listening to the radio. It seems so bizarre that chaos surrounds the calm pockets of the slum where sights like these are a part of life and life continues…

We get back to the home (I keep fighting what to call it, a home, room, shack?) and I ask Patrick if I can take some pictures while he passes out the food and two of his helpers pass out the containers of juice. He encourages it and so I just kind of watch as all the kids get in a line. I help pass out the food to the kids who are inside of the room but Patrick stops me-5 of them live at home and although this might be the best meal they have seen in a few days, the food is for the street kids.

Insane, sad, overwhelming, hopeful. There is no way any one word can sum up an experience like this. I am inspired by Patrick and hopeful for the kids but at the same time overwhelmed with the situation and discouraged by their odds at getting a better life. I came in protecting my bag like I did every day on the metro of Madrid and leave feeling a little ashamed that not once did a child try to look inside or take anything. They all gave me hugs and thanked my like I had done something for them when all I had done is smile at them, give them a hug, and take their pictures.

As this was only morning/early afternoon, I had more to write about but for now, this is enough.

Friday, August 21, 2009

Where Am I!?!?

Kampala shopping list;

2 tshirts size: for a small 11/2 yr old boys but big enough to last 2 years.
Warm peanut butter
Rolling pin
Sanitary Chapatti plate
2 small kids toys
salt bread
gum
True list of things I was searching for when I headed back to Kampala this afternoon. I went to meet Leslie, the head of The Real Uganda, the grassroots organization I am working for and who placed me at KACCAD for coffee. I read about a place called Café Pap in my guidebook which got a 9 for wifi and good coffee so I suggested it. Of course, Leslie knew where it was and told me she goes there all the time for coffee. Basically that means it must be good! It was really nice to sit down and get feedback and have her give me advice or suggestions on things I can do to improve my time here helping others. That is definitely one thing I am so grateful for; going through GVN I knew I would have someone on the ground in Uganda who lived there and knew the people. Leslie has been so helpful and clearly cares about what she is doing.
After a great Americano and discussion, Leslie left me to check out their wifi and possibly another item on their menu! Their food was expensive so I decided to go with just one more coffee and tried the latte. Best. Decision. Ever. And I never EVER exaggerate…but seriously. I drink the flaky shells of coffee beans for breakfast in the morning or if splurging on instant,
consider that a huge upgrade so imagine my joy. Now this really is true. I sat and admired it for 20 minutes wanting to take a picture but not wanting to embarrass myself doing so with people on both sides of me. During this time I was also on the computer and even debated via facebook chat with my friend Kathryn if I should take one! The evidence will show you I submitted myself to an embarrassing moment and took the opportunity to get a photo of art in a cup. Even when the connection accidently was terminated 5 minutes early on my internet session, I was feeling so overly indulgent, it almost seemed righteous that something would inconvenience me a little! But, I’m not done. I left to walk over to Garden City Shopping Center (it’s like Mzungu HQ, you find all the tourists there because it caters to western taste) to meet Brooke and Chris for dinner. We had all gone to Kampala for different reasons but wanted to meet up to eat. There is a place called New York Kitchen which everyone talks about and I really wanted to try. It serves pizza, salads, calzones and basically incredible food impossible to find anywhere else. The food was great though pricey for our standards back in Bulenga but worth it. I honestly felt like I wasn’t even in Uganda today which also made me feel a little guilty. I did not come here to have a day this incredible and delicious and it’s hard to justify it when I know tomorrow I go back to reporting how people don’t have enough to eat or can’t send their kids to school.

So I guess I will try to enjoy and appreciate moments like that without forgetting what I came here for. I will also use all the nutritious variety I experienced to help me get energized for tomorrow!

You should have a boda-boda driver in your "top five" and other things I learned today 8/17/09

There is a point in any new experience where you feel relaxed enough to ease up a little without feeling comfortable. It’s after you pass the point of feeling like you’re not in control or could lose it at any second. Then, before you get to the point of comfort and are acclimated, you hit that stage where you get a little confidence, feeling like you can handle the challenges and you may actually like not knowing what’s coming! THAT is where I am and I love it!

I know enough to be ready for some really sad mornings hearing from concerned HIV positive clients worried about their children when they are gone or getting enough to eat. I know to expect hugs when I walk into the orphanage and to see kids playing with a few bricks, a stick and a mesh cage having as much fun as a little American boy who just got a new remote controlled car. I also know at all times where my flashlight, phone, and keychain light are so when the power goes out or my boda driver makes a wrong turn on the way back, I’m going to be able to see what I am putting into my bowl for dinner and skip over the giant pothole filled with mud walking towards my home.
(Photo: A fruit stand near my home. I learned you don't need a lot of anything besides creativity when it comes to entrepreneurship!)

What I don’t know are things like how to best help all the people I meet so obviously in need or even when I do, how to get the results I want! I still don’t know which store within two miles sells diet coke or where I can buy peanut butter and I also don’t know how in the world I am going to wash the pee out of my jeans from the pantsless twins at the orphanage staging a sneak attack before I could hand them off to someone else!

“Knowledge is Power” but it can also lead to settling. Settling for being comfortable rather than pushing yourself to the next challenge. Since I view myself as slightly lazy or complacent, I try to keep myself in a place where I am forced to learn new things every day!

A few things I learned today:

Wasuze otya means “good morning” when you don’t want to say oli otya which is “how was your night?” This is super useful when you are just passing someone who you don’t want to stop and converse with but you don’t want to ignore either. I learned this from Derrick’s 3 year old daughter. Technically I learned it 3 days ago but I just got what she was finally saying to me every morning.

A charcoal stove that is big enough to make chapatti costs less than the pan that goes on top. I bought a small stove today for the woman I want to help start a chappatti stand for herself. She needs to generate enough income to support caring for her grandsons and hopefully be able to visit her brother in the hospital. Even with bargaining, I only managed to bring down the price of the pan 500USH and it was STILL more than the stove!

I don’t like noodles for dinner. Or lunch. Or really ever. I have had enough noodles to sustain whatever part of my brain would ever crave them for years.

I really like the kids at the orphanage.

I also have favorites; Carlos, the kid who for whatever reason loves Spanish and wants to learn. I teach him a few words every time I come and he knows them the next day. He’s also really smart in general and just an overall great kid. Vic, whose real name is Victoria and whom everyone else calls Victor (because that’s somehow more girly than Vic?!?) or Victoria even though she likes Vic. Vic it is for me! Rebecca because she’s just really smart and I am so impressed with how eager she seems to learn. John Bosco because he’s three and the chillest three year old I have ever met. Plus he played catch with me. And his name is John Bosco. And finally the little Rachel (there are 2) who is the cutest kid ever. So sweet and adorable!
(Photo: Carlos, one of my favorites asked me to take his picture "looking smart")

Apparently you can tie a string around a finger and it will fall off. At least that’s what is happening at Bbiri clinic.

You can use a fork for anything. That includes making eggs, opening cans of instant coffee and later as the utensil to stir the muck up in the bottom of your cup.

And finally- it is good to make nice with at least one boda-boda driver. Geoffrey is now a valued contact saved to my phone. Even though the first time we met, he started asking me if I knew Jesus WHILE driving and WHILE turning around to hear my answers, he gives me a fair mzungu price to the orphanage and back everyday. Now, I no longer have to “compromise” with the others where they look at me straight in the eye and try to charge me 4 times what a local pays. Please.

All of these pieces of knowledge have different shelf-lives for usefulness but I still love knowing that I learned them!

(Photo: Brooke using a tupperware container as her "cup" and a fork as her "teaspoon" makes for some decent morning coffee!)

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Bargains at the Equator

Amazing weekend! On Saturday morning, Brooke, Chris and I met up with Rachel and took a matata (van taxi) into Kampala. There we were meeting Greg and Todd, 2 other volunteers from California who work in another area of Uganda. Morgan, (also from Cali) was also coming but a bit later. I met Morgan, Greg and Todd through The Real Uganda when we all stayed for a night at the volunteer house in Mukono. We had decided to meet in Kampala since it was a convenient middle point for all of us. Not to mention it would be nice to get a little bit of city life, functioning internet, food, and a night out!

We booked a night at a hostal called Red Chili which is in every guidebook and known by any mzungu remotely near Kampala. It’s pretty incredible when you are living with few luxuries; a shower, a flushable toilet that you can sit on, DSTV, cold drinks, western foods and internet! We all stayed in the mixed dorms-the cheapest option and therefore the total price was a whopping 12,000 USH, roughly $6.00. It was great to have a little time to unwind and actually feel like the dirt was coming off my body instead of feeling like I am just redispersing it.


(Picture: Typical hostal dorm room complete with your very own mosquito net!)

We stayed there for awhile before heading out for the night and were shown a place for dinner (by our lovely tour guide Chris who navigated the streets of Kampala like he had lived there for 20 years) not yet in the Bradt Travel Guide which I guarantee will/should be in any future books! Tuhende Safari Lodge, run by a native Ugandan who spent 35 years living in California is the owner. For 13,900 USH, you get an appetizer that appeared to be something like pita filled with different vegetables and served with a chili salsa. Following 3 plates of that for 8 people, we each got a bowl of onion and crouton soup. As a main course, you have a choice of several options including steak, several chicken or fish dishes and 2 vegetarian options. I choice one of the vegetable dishes and it was absolutely amazing. Since vegetable are considered a poor man’s choice or an afterthought here, (besides potatos, beans, and cassava, a root vegetable) finding anything more than a miniscule piece of tomato in your pasta or rice is a miracle. I was in heaven. Collectively we probably said “this is sooo good” or in my case, “this is unreal” about 50 times.


(Picture: The group of volunteers at Tuhende Safari Lodge in Kampala for Dinner

Later on we went to a bar called Parkside Inn where I got killed in the Ugandan pool game. Here I got to try my first baggie of alcohol. Since I am not a beer drinker and everything else gets a little more pricey, I was eyeing the sodas when I noticed on the chalkboard it said “Beckham, 700USH. I decided I had to try it and ordered one with a Krest Bitter Lemon soda. For those fortunate enough to have missed out on this opportunity in life, Beckham is gin in a baggie which I now realize I have seen many people sipping OUT OF A STRAW on the street. Due to the poor balancing skills of a plastic bag on a table, the half I managed to have before spilling the rest left me pretty sure I wouldn’t order it again. We left to go to Effendy, a bar/club likelier to be found somewhere in the U.S rather than anywhere else in Uganda The music was loud and the drinks overpriced but it had an outdoor area in the back and it was nice to have fun!

Sunday Brooke, Greg, Todd, Morgan, Rachel and I headed to the area in Uganda directly on the line of the equator. We were warned it was two ugly circles where a bunch of mzungus go to take cheesy photos. If you know me, you realize hearing that, I was DEFINITELY going! I love the cheesy tourist spots just as much as I love the off the beaten track locations. We really got lucky with our timing. It poured almost the entire 1 ½ hour drive and just before we arrived, the rain stopped! We got out to a clear sky and the picturesque view of two, clearly out of place circles that you could step in and shamelessy take numerous photos of yourself. Of course I did just that and loved every second.

Since it’s clear this is a tourist hotspot, there are also several stores that sell everything from postcards and miniature animals to incredible artwork and handmade instruments. I had mistakenly put several 1000USH in my wallet for the weekend believing them to be 10,000 bills so I had NO money to be spending so I took on the roll of “admirer.” I still loved looking at all the incredible crafts made by hand and got some good ideas for a few souvenirs for my family!

(Picture: Duh. THe Equator! Climbing up is harder than it looks though. Apparently other lame tourists have done the same thing so it gets tricky when the letters "D and "A" are loose!)

While my adventure up to that point had been frugal, I assumed lunch would be where I would spend the last of my money. In fact, I ended up spending less that $1.00 on a great lunch! We decided to skip the café near the shops where everybody else went and walked about 20 minutes down the road to get some local food. Of course everyone stared and we had kids come up and watch us buy some food at one of the stores.

Here is what we came out with for about 2500 USH for 6 people; 2 avocados, chipatti, “pancakes,” (which I can best describe as fried unrisen banana bread that’s about the size of the “O” your hand makes when you give the “ok” signal) sambosas (trianble shaped bread filled with rice, chickpeas or meat,) and mini bananas. I also got a the delicious Krest Bitter Lemon soda which cost me more than my meal at a whopping 1000USH (50 cents!)

This post will end like it started; amazing weekend!

From Cows to Wheelbarrows. You Know, the Usual.

I woke up today ready to head out on more home visits only to realize that at least around here, Friday seems to be an extension of the weekend! It turned out great for me since I then decided I needed a slight workout and headed to the spring to fill up 2 jerrycans. I waited only about 15 minutes today as there were less people and when I came back up, Chris, the engineer (or artist which he reminds me) had finally woken up from what he refers to as his “creative time” and agreed to go to the spring with me to do round 2. However, first we stopped at the site of the work-in-progress volunteer house he has been tasked to build. Once finished, this will really help out KACCAD because they will no longer have to pay rent on their property as they own the land.

(Photo: The extra builder)

Arriving, our goal was to film a little bit of Chris’ progress for a piece he is doing to show other engineers at his alma mater, Bath University. Not surprisingly, we had one bull-horned cow strolling through the rooms and a cow-herder telling us something in Luganda which we could only politely nod and respond with, Oliotya saabo (roughly translates to “how is the day sir) a few times. After finally getting a few clips of the house, we headed to the spring the route we believed was the back way. The back way turned into a pleasant 45 minute walk through villagers’ backyards filled with goats, chickens, children and animal poop and unidentified plants I am hoping are not going to give me rashes. With enough water now to last the day, I decided the rest of my morning would be spent doing something productive. I organized my supplies that I will be using at the orphanage and then gathered and completed all 50 forms for the children regarding their HIV results.

After lunch, Brooke, Rachel and I headed to the orphanage to spend the afternoon with the kids. When we got there, it was pretty cool to see some of them literally jump up and run to give us hugs. Even though it was Rachel’s first time there, they all welcomed her as well. I asked Sam what they needed help with and the task of the day was grading their exams. It was not difficult but really time consuming even with both of us and it was nice to know we were able to do something for the guys that would allow them to relax a little more this weekend.

While we were busy with that, super nurse Brooke had found one of the little girls, Rebecca laying down with what she correctly believed was an extremely high fever. Even with my limited knowledge, I could tell her temperature was lamplight warm. (Don’t act like you don’t know-the temperature you get after you put the thermometer under the lamp to skip school!) Brooke decided to take her to the clinic and later that night, came back to tell us Rebecca had reached 40.5 Celsius (105 degrees Fahrenheit!!) As this was a local clinic, the level of care is usually not the same as what one might expect in the U.S or any developed country. They gave her a shot of quinine and a Vitamin B supplement which seems to be given for any type of ailment here. Brooke is going to follow up at 7 tomorrow morning to get her another shot and some more medicine.

(Photo: these kids made the wheelbarrow their clown car! The older boys in the back are typical 11 year olds posing for the camera)

Sitting here typing on my Macbook, charging my ipod and about to get into a bed I don’t have to share with 3 or 4 other people, I can’t help but think about how being born in one place verse another can so drastically affect everything in your life. Not only your physical comforts but your health and education. However, as depressing as that can be to think about when I am here looking at poverty and destitution every day, Uganda has given me insight on how I truly control my happiness and attitude. It’s amazing how being here allows me to appreciate things that I have always taken for granted like being able to use to toilet without friendly visitors (flies) all around you or a shower where water comes out when you turn a handle and you can even ADJUST the temperature! When a kid who has been wearing the same outfit for 4 days interrupts his game of wheelbarrow racing (not the one you’re thinking but where they cram 4 kids IN a wheelbarrow and race it around) to greet you with a hug it seems so obvious that material things while nice, cannot make a person joyful. I hope when I got back to a world where drama means LC leaves "The Hills" or starving means I didn't eat breakfast, I can remember some of the things people who most would say have nothing were able to teach me.

(Photo: The REAL wheelbarrow race you never got to do in grade school!)


Tuesday, August 18, 2009

The positives and negatives of an HIV mobile clinic 8/13/09



(Picture: Some of the kids from the orphanage getting their numbers for testing and paperwork completed. These kids were incredibly brave getting their blood drawn!!)



2nd week for HIV testing. This time, the testing was done in the village of Nankawadde where we set up at the Kawuuzi health clinic. I had talked to Patrick, the director at the orphanage and was really hoping the kids would come. I wasn’t sure if they would be able to do it but at least this one was in walking distance so there was a chance!

Yesterday I bet Sam 500 USH 
(about 25 cents) that we wouldn’t be leaving for the clinic until after 8am which was the “official” start time on all the posters we had so carefully placed around the village. I have learned the art of Ugandan time here. Ugandan time was explained to me like this; Time is about being comfortable. You don’t rush because it it not comfortable to have a time commitment. If you are uncomfortable at any given moment, your aim is to be comfortable with whatever you do next.



(Picture: Patrick our lab technician)



This leads to many leisurely tea breaks and casual chats with people on the road. With that in mind, I decided 8 would be the perfect time to wake up and I could then be ready to leave by what I imagined would be the departure time of 9…ish. I learn quickly so when we left at about 9:30, I felt very comfortable with my bet won and my morning relaxing!

When we arrived it was a little different story. By the time the counselors and nurses arrived at their comfortable time of 11:00, I had already given one presentation on Safe sex and abstinence to a group of about 25 people and was about to start on the healthy eating presentation when I noticed that there were a few important parts of the testing that had been forgotten. Namely, the numbered cards that each person should receive to help keep the results a little more confidential.

After asking around for paper and getting blank stares Brooke, the volunteer nurse, ripped some out of her notebook and we quickly made 57 pieces assuming that would be enough. We were only off by about 77 people! Once we started, we did not stop until 4:30pm. We did not take a break for food, water, the bathroom, anything. It was literally one after the other. My job was to see the person first, take their number and record it on their paper as well as our records and then fill out their information on another sheet where later we record results. Then, the patient would go to Noreen, a nurse from Uganda who would draw their blood. Brooke would take the sample and put it in the test tube and a lab worker then analyzed the results. Finally, I would have to record whether the results were positive or negative on the papers after they testing had been done. If it seems time consuming, it is. I could have easily written a novel with all the writing I did today!

The major work came when at around 1:00pm, 50 children came from the orphanage to get tested. Not only did we have a stream of adults still coming, we had 50 kids as young as 3 who needed testing. I was so proud of how well they did and most of them didn’t even cry! Remember, this testing was done in a poor village in Uganda. There were not separate rooms or to be more specific, there were NO rooms. The testing was done outside in the back of the health clinic. Therefore, all the children could see the needle going into the arm of the child in from of them-I can’t believe how tough they were! It was so cute to see the older kids comforting the younger ones who were crying after the results. It was truly amazing to see how brave and caring they all were! After they were finished and knowing they had at least a 30 minute walk back, they did not want to wait for the results. I was then officially entrusted to bring all the results back to the orphanage. Now, of course due to confidentiality, I won’t tell you the specifics but suffice it to say, I was VERY pleased with the kids results! They have enough challenges in their lives without having to deal with an awful disease like HIV/AIDS.

Finally returning back to KACCAD, we arrived to find we still had to water. It was my first exciting excursion down to the local spring where you bring your jerrycans and fill them up with running water from a stream somewhere in Uganda! The route is directly downhill so on the positive side, I had a workout to look forward to! I went with Brooke and Sam who showed us the way. Apparently, 5:00 is social hour at the spring and we waited about 40 minutes before it was our turn to fill up the jerrycans. After all 5 were filled, we began the no water workout and seriously, it’s no joke. When you are lugging two full cans, one in each hand and scaling your way up a dirt path, it can get a little tiring! At least I know I will appreciate my shower/pour a bucket over my head time a little more tonight!
Hopefully we will get water tomorrow as I desperately need to wash my clothes! That will probably mean 2 trips down to the stream but on the plus side, Saturday Chris, Brooke and I are headed into Kampala and are going to stay overnight in a hostal for backpackers which to us at this moment is like the Hilton! They have cold drinks, a pool table, and free internet! HEAVEN
(Picture: Confirming results with the nurse and technician before sending the confidential forms to the counselors who give the actual results to the clients.)

Making babies and being born in the right place 8/12/09

I came to Uganda hoping to do achieve two things; Number one-learn more about the people and difficulties here and secondly, learn FROM them. I hope to take what I learn and find at least some ways to help improve the lives of those here with the extremely generous support in all typs of ways from my friends and family. Just as importantly, I hope to bring back what I learn from this country and those who make it so incredible for those who, for numerous reasons, might not be able to experience it themselves. Today I think I achieved a little bit of both.

I started my day sitting on the floor writing my pregnancy presentation on large sheets of poster paper with the help of Sam, a KACCAD worker. Basically, it was my job to present to a roomful of women (one man!!) and their babies the importance of antenatal care and then postnatal care. Clearly my specialty what with my background in child development and personal experience with childbirth…right. So that’s why my day started with the books, Where There is No Doctor and a very visually descriptive book for women ranging from how to find a comfortable position for sleep to what you can expect to look like during every month of pregnancy, at my side as reference guides. Luckily Brooke, a volunteer nurse who has been working at the hospital was able to help as well. She explained the most common problems they see are women who are malnourished bringing in their malnourished children as well. Sometimes it’s because they can’t afford food and other times it’s because of a lack of knowledge on what foods are needed.

The objective of the morning was to scan both books while discussing with Sam the culturally appropriate explanations and then put on a good presentation to a lot of skeptical women. I have to say I think I did a pretty decent job. I tried to keep it simple but informative and I thought it went well! At the end, the lone father in the room stood up and said in English, “thank you for teaching us” to which of course I responded, “thank you for listening!” For the most part, the babies behaved very well and the women were very attentive. My only obvious error was just a cultural difference where, when speaking about the proper weight of a growing child from birth to 5 years, I mentioned that a baby born under 3.1 kg is considered underweight. This, in fact is true in the United States but in Uganda, as the nurse politely corrected me,” 2.5 kg and under is considered underweight. I was very grateful that she politely put it in question form and then allowed me to explain that I was incorrect rather than trying to correct me in front of the group.

After the presentation I came back to my home to wash clothes only to find that we have no water. Normally, there are taps outside that you can use for cooking and filling up water. Today that lucky modern privilege is no longer. I was told it could be a day or possibly a week before we get working pumps so that was frustrating. Luckily it went off right when I was finishing my clothes so I will have clean underwear for another week! Now we will have to walk down to the community water pipe and fill up our jerrycans when they are low to have enough water for washing and cooking. It really isn’t too bad but it was a little frustrating when today the gas also went out so we no longer can use the stove to heat coffee or boil eggs in the morning. Oh AND the electricity comes on later every night now. I know I am lucky to have it at all and I definitely realize how I have taken it for granted. Now when I spend every night eating by flashlight, I am trying to be appreciative while literally sitting and waiting until around 10 when I will have electricity to read or take a shower (VERY difficult with no light and water in a small shower room the size of a port-a-potty.) It can be really uncomfortable but in a way, I am proud of myself for being able to deal with all that is coming at me and just kind of figuring a way to deal with it. It really helps and puts my discomforts in perspective when I constantly see people in more dire situations than I will probably ever encounter. It makes me grateful for the fact that I still have water, clean clothes to change into and food that I am able to complain about having to eat in the dark! It also helps to have Chris and Brooke around to sarcastically complain with and laugh 2 seconds later!

An update on the orphanage: the kids are taking their exams this week and so I helped with P.5’s exam today. I will try to put this in stark contrast with my memory of an exam I took in 5th grade in a public school in the U.S; Taking a little liberty with detail, I imagine I woke up, ate a breakfast of cracklin oat bran (Yes I KNOW none of you probably relate. Kirk and Catherine were what I will delicately call sliiightly overprotective and that they even invaded the kitchen where sugar cereals seemed to be as bad as cigarettes. Don’t you guys read the labels? Lucky Charms gives children bad attitudes and makes them want to smoke cigaretters) Aaaanyways, I probably headed to school with my XL GAP t-shirt which was totally cool back then, my umbro shorts and comfortable samba sneakers. I bet I brought my backpack filled with colored pencils, markers, pencils and pens (black and blue so when I wrote notes in class, I could change it up) and I ALWAYS had my trapper keeper with the clear outside pocket so I could put pictures of all my friends and draw around them when I didn’t want to listen to the teacher. When I got to school. I would sit in my assigned desk and have a few minutes to prepare for my exam while my college educated teacher would hand out clear print-out copies that were the same for everyone. I was nerdy so I would have been a little nervous and probably look around the well-lit room to all my friends making faces like, “oooh great. I would waaay rather be playing POGS and talking about my new slammer.” After finishing, I would have continued with the school day eating a hot lunch prepared by the lunch ladies and hoping my mild had the sticker on the bottom for the free cookie.

Here is the day for a P.5 student at the Raising Up Hope Orphanage; Most of the students wake up under their mosquito nets next to one or two other kids in the orphanage. Without breakfast they start the day by getting dressed and doing chores like sweeping or mopping the floors or maybe going out into the neighborhood to try to climb the trees with fruit in them to eat with their friends. Many of the kids in P.5 are older so they would take care of the two 3-month-old babies or other little ones.

(Photo: One of the kids drawing a picture with some donated crayons and paper)























Preparing for the exam is easy. They cannot study from the book as there is only one copy for the teacher so they would have to look at their notes. Coming to class which is an unlit room next to the main building, they might have had one pen and one pencil or perhaps shared with another student. At the “school,” there is no door to close to your classroom and there are children ages 3 months to 15 years running around outside playing. In the class, there is no electricity and the ages range from 10-20 years old. There are two tables and four benches. The tables are similar to a picnic table so the children sit across from each other and if anything is written on the board, the kids in the back either stand up or strain their necks around all the other kids to see. Before I arrived, one of the founders of the orphanage handed out the exams. Since he was the only one available at the time, he left the children in the room on their own in order watch the other children. The exam was handwritten and photocopied. Sam, one of the guys who started the orphanage had explained to me on Monday how he did not have the money to make photocopies for the exam. As they did not have sufficient funds to print the pages, Sam had written them out by hand and photocopied them because it is cheaper than printing. The handwritten words were very difficult to read and some of the pages were cut off on the bottom or the sides so while it is timed, you are constantly having to stop and ask the teacher, or in this case class monitor (me) what a word is or what word(s) are missing. At times I wasn’t sure so I had to leave the class to ask Sam the meaning or ask what word was missing on the page. Oh and don’t forget-this exam was not given in their native language! With minimum education, some of the students do not have a good level of English. If a child’s level of English is not good, he/she might not even understand the instructions even if fully capable of comprehending the concept.

One example of this today was a question asked after a short story where they had to answer the simple question; What is the relationship between the two characters? One child asked me what the word relationship was and thinking she couldn’t read it since it was written slightly illegibly, I told her. Without any look of understanding on her face, I realized she didn’t have a clue what a relationship was. Asking the class, none of them did. They simply didn’t know what the word meant in English.

Another problem resulted in the lack of paper and ability to print. I started noticing once I had the original copy that some of the students were working on pages I did not have! I realized that because all pages are two-sided, some of them had sides from another class' exam. Therefore, while they should have been filling out transition words on page one and moving on to short stories with short answers for page two, some kids were drawing parts of the body or asking me when I wanted them to demonstrate the commands on their paper like “clap” and “jump.”

I guess the main thing I took away from this experience was how much harder these kids have to work for an education than I did. Not only do they lack supplies but they are faced with numerous other challenges ranging from noise and illegible wording to lack of food and space. Even completing simple repetitive exercises for things like math take 3x longer. They don’t have their own books so they must first write down the entire problem. In P.5 it can be a tedious task with all the story problems. Even if a child is quick with math but slow when writing, they will have less opportunity to grasp a concept than the others. They don’t have a quiet place to study or review and they don’t have a strict parent making sure (like I did) my homework was done before I went and played nor one who is concerned if their grades slip or their behavior changes.

(photo: Kids copying their math problems from the crude blackboard where I wrote all their problems out. The orphanage finally got a single copy for most of the school books so a teacher can actually follow what they would be studying in school.)























It may sound surprising since today if you look at it in one way, it was one of my roughest days yet. However to be honest, it was one of my best! I felt hopeful when I saw all the great parents at the clinic waiting patiently for their child to get immunized and that hope carried over to my time at the orphanage where I talked with Carlos, the 11 year old who, for whatever reason loves Spain and wants to learn Spanish. I had taught him the numbers 1-11 (so he could say his age) and within two days he had it down! He seemed really proud of himself and I also noticed he had decorated his special notebook for our “Spanish class” with glitter. I felt hopeful when I cut string for bracelets and saw how when even the smallest kids wanted string to make one, the older kids immediately commanded everyone to get in a line and let all the little kids all go first. And maybe hopeful is not the right word but I felt good about my bargaining skills when after telling a boda-boda driver I would walk if he was going to charge me more than I normally pay to get home, he conceded and I got the regular “mzungu rate” of 1000 USH to ride home.



Life is good :)


(Photo: Studying so hard she's not even distracted by the camera!)






The relationship between garlic and HIV 8/11/09

Memorable. That word best describes my day today. I woke up and had my routine cup of coffee where I boil water and then put in what I can only describe as “flakes” of coffee that I believe are supposed to be filtered into my cup. After pouring the water in and letting it sit for about 2 minutes, it is drinkable. The flakes sink to the bottom and form a murky brown pool that clumps together in the bottom of my cup enabling me to drink what I pretend is coffee. After this delicious drink I helped Sam, an employee at Kaccad write out 30 signs on white poster paper in Luganda, the native language in this part of Uganda. The signs indicate we are having another free testing for HIV this Thursday and the time and location for the event.

Today was also the last day for Melissa, a volunteer who had been here for a month. We decided to "go into town" and get an amazing breakfast rather than our standard 2 hard boiled eggs and toast. We walked on the dirt path towards the main road where there is a stand selling an incredible concoction called a Rolex. A rolex is a chapatti with an omelet rolled up inside or the chapatti is cooked between a layer of eggs, depending on the stand. It usually includes diced cabbage, tomato and onion as well and costs 700 USH (less than a dollar.) The taste is amazing! It was my first one and I will definitely be back for more!

Following breakfast, I went out to deliver the signs we made around Bulenga, the village I live in and also Kuwuuzi, where the testing will be. This is where my day became memorable. I am pretty used to the regular call of “Mzungu” (pronounced ma-zoon-goo and meaning foreigner or more specifically, white person) and the children following me down the street yelling “SEE YOU MZUNGU.” I think they believe it means hello. There are also the kids who manage to warble out “MIJOONGOOO.” This from the babies who probably can’t even formulate 10 words in Luganda yet. This really happens…every day. Today was no different and because it gets old really quickly and kind of annoying to have kids saying “Hello white person” everywhere you go, I usually only acknowledge the little ones or the kids who ask “how are you?” instead of screaming after me. The difference today was the intensity of the Mzungu greeting. Walking around with Nicholas, another employee at Kaccad, I heard a group of 10 kids (you always here the “Mzungu” cry before you spot ‘em.) Suddenly, I have 10 kids following us chanting “A Ma-zoon-goo, A Ma-zoon-goo” over and over. It probably took us 5 minutes to get the sign up and walk away before they stopped. It was…outrageous. I actually had Nicholas tell them in Luganda that my name was not Mzungu but Caitie to which the adults nearby laughed and the kids accepted by responding cheerfully with “See you Mzungu!” Fine. I accept it. Mzungu will likely be my name for another month and a half.

This was not my only memorable event of the day. I also had a man aggressively pointing at me and speaking in rapid Luganda which is very rare (the word rapid does not seem to exist in Luganda, it is a very slow and smooth language). Nicholas translated and told me he was saying to him how no white person like me (thus the finger pointing and the word Mzungu sprinkled through the conversation) dies of HIV and no one in the US suffers from AIDS. Of course, I told him it wasn’t true but his gaze was certainly not one of confidence.

Photos: Some of the "Mzungu" repeat offenders greeting me with the official "See you Mzungu!"

Third, we were stopped by a group of 4 guys probably in their 20’s who proceeded to have a long conversation with Nicholas. Upon leaving he remarked, “young men, they have so many questions.” Apparently they wanted to know if the rumor was true about getting tested. You are probably as curious as I was; Uh, what rumor? Oooooh that one. The one where if you have garlic before the test, you will always show up negative. That surprised me a little. I have seen a lot in a week and had so many new experiences but finding grown men with serious questions equating garlic to HIV testing was a little scary. I have been struggling to decide my opinion recently on international aid and its benefits and how it can be abused. I guess in a way, this helped me a little bit with my belief that aid IS important and the number one way aid can assist impoverished countries is by providing money for education. This idea continues to be reinforced by what I have seen and experienced.

The rest of my day involved reading more of a really great and informative book on the kidnapped Aboke girls during the late 90’s. Joseph Kony, head of the LRA and Museveni, the current and at that time president of Uganda were fighting for control of both Uganda and areas in Sudan. Joseph Kony's army, commonly referred to as the "children's army" kidnapped, indoctrined and used thousands of children to fight the Ugandan military. In order to "toughen" his soldiers as young as 5 or 6 years old, many were forced to kill members of their own family or friends in order to save their own lives. Anyone who tried to escape was killed by other child soldiers to “strengthen their emotional state”. Atrocities like this occurred frequently and with brutality all throughout the north of Uganda and Sudan.

The rest of my night will involve me researching and completing my presentation on antenatal and postnatal care for the pregnant women and young mothers at the Bbiri clinic tomorrow. If only the power would go back on so I could read without flickering candles…

Saturday, August 15, 2009

"What a Woman!" 2nd week at KACCAD-8/10/09

Today is the start of my second week at Kaccad. I have started to get into a routine where almost every morning, I go on 3 house visits to a client of Kaccad’s afflicted with HIV. We bring them Malaria nets donated by The Real Uganda and try to establish if they are able to eat a balanced diet, maintain good hygiene, and find out how they are doing in general. Like I mentioned before, it’s really interesting and quite different the way being ill is treated here versus in the U.S. I keep thinking about how when I am ill, I usually just want to lie down and feel bad for myself. That does NOT happen to include entertaining guests as I am well aware my bees nest hairdo coupled with the sweatpants and XL tshirt is not my most flattering look. Plus, most of the time I am tired and selfishly don’t want to feel obligated to be a good host! Another difference comes with the acknowledgement of serious and life threatening or terminal illness. Most of the time in western culture, when you have a serious illness it is kept private. Details are not asked and usually not freely given. Even if your guests are aware, it’s not something you defer to when having a conversation and certainly isn't the first subject! "Hey I just stopped by to see how that painful STD treatment is coming along?" or, "yeah, I was bored so I came over to hear if those skin lesions they think are a result of you having AIDS are progressing." Here, the exact opposite is the case. It is a sign of compassion and respect to go to a friend or family member’s house and inquire after them. You do not have to clean up, get dressed, or act like you are ok. You welcome the visitor and tell them what is ailing you. After being asked, it also does not seem uncommon to volunteer an honest truth and sometimes some very personal information!

Another striking difference between visiting people in a country like the U.S and a developing country is the type of ailments encountered. I have visited people who are suffering from illnesses they will never recover from and are currently suffering yet still in their home. Most will stay there until they pass away without the opportunity to receive costly check-ups or hospital stays. Not only that, this is rural Uganda. Their poverty reaches all aspects of their life. Combined with trying to stay physically strong, they have to battle the massive stress resulting from searching for opportunities to earn money and eat well to paying school fees for their children.

Having said that, a situation that at first glance appears overwhelmingly hopeless can lead to an environment that molds incredibly strong personalities. I just so happened to meet one and I hope everyone, at some point in their life, has the opportunity to do the same. The person I am referring to (I will call her Mary) is phsycially misleading; I first saw her walking out of her home with a very noticeable limp where it appeared she was not able to comfortably bend her left knee. Mary was wearing a very well-used collared shirt and a skirt that has likely been worn and washed hundreds of times as evidenced by several tears and holes placed throughout. She came straight for us even though another woman I later learned was her daughter-in-law, had already unrolled and sat down on a straw mat next to us. I was confused. Meetings are usually private and with only the client. For Mary, that norm did not seem to register with her "take-charge" personality. I originally thought the younger woman was perhaps her caretaker and Mary was the client. I was completely mistaken. Contrary to what I have heard and seen on other visits, Mary, related only by her son's marriage, was fully invested in the health and spirit of her daughter-in-law. Her son, having died of AIDS, left his wife and 4 children in a difficult situation; with little income to cover food, shelter and school fees, her daughter-in-law was headed down a very difficult path to come out from. I have already heard how when the husband dies first, his family ostracizes or stops caring for his ailing wife and children and she is left to fend for herself. Mary did just the opposite.

She is one of those strong, incredible women where you just have to step back and the only thing that comes to mind is…"wow." She started talking right away to Nicholas, the head of the HIV sector of KACCAD. She expressed condolences for the loss of his father who recently passed and then included me in the conversation by telling me (via Nicholas in Luganda) how I was most welcome and she was so thankful I came. We started asking various questions trying to establish the level of hygiene practiced and to ensure a reduced risk of malaria. Usually this means asking about the area surrounding the house; having it cleared of long grass and standing water as well as covered latrines to help prevent flies and malaria-carrying mosquitos.

The conversation ran a bit different with Mary there. By the end, I felt like perhaps we should be checking where we live to be certain we had done everything properly! Mary explained to us that not only were their latrines covered but they also burned banana leaves and placed them in the pit deterring flies and creating a pleasant scent. Further conversation revealed that she seemed to be one step ahead of every suggestion we provided. This was the first time I had seen a mother-in-law so active and fiercely determined to provide the best care she could. It was obvious Mary prided herself on being able to help her daughter-in-law and most importantly, her grandchildren.

I think the most powerful moment for me was when she began to speak to us about her clothes. Surely, we must notice the holes in her skirt and how old her clothing was. She got up on her knees and turned to the side to make sure we could clearly see her stained and torn skirt and blouse. It was clear that not only had these clothes seen better days but possibly better DECADES. From her previous behavior, I imagine this must have been difficult for her to wear such an outfit. She had such a desire for her family to fare better. She explained she wore clothes like these so all the money could go towards her grandchildren’s school fees. However, even with sacrifices like that, they still do not have enough.

I have been told that often when children are sent to school with unpaid fees, the teachers will harass them and point them out stating how they have not paid. Their classmates might also pick on them and it is an incredibly shameful experience. Mary was a woman who clearly found this consequence unacceptable and therefore decided to do everything in her power to keep her son's family moving forward.

The cost of school fees is the main worry for almost every family I have visited. I am struggling with how I can help or what can be done to allow these kids to go to school. Most of the parents believe that it is the only way for their children to live a better life than they have and yet they are not sure how to enable this to happen. To the people in the rural areas, education is the only sure way to enable options for their children in the future.

So why did this visit stand out to me? I think it had to do with the feisty attitude of a grandmother who realizing the situation she was in, decided to do whatever she could to improve it. She never begged us for money but she wasn’t shy about stating her issues and what the concerns of her family were. She spoke directly to me which Nicholas would translate and she took care of her daughter-in-law and grandchildren like they were her own. It was incredible to see her mental toughness show when she spoke and it left a lasting impression!

Another visit I had today stood out but for a different reason. It was the first home we visited today and in it was an HIV-positive woman living with her twin brother and 2 grandchildren, 1 ½ year old twin boys. Unfortunately her brother has been in the hospital due to STD complications for over 4 months. Before entering her home I saw feces on the ground near the door from the two small diaperless boys too young to knwo better. Inside was the frame of a couch which I almost managed to break sitting in the unsupported middle. A bag was hanging up and it looked like a brush and perhaps clothes spilling out. On the floor were spots I imagine was a urine stains and both children were playing with scraps of paper in the dirt next to it.

This woman has no source of income and the boys are orphans; she is their primary caretaker. Her hope is to be able to start a chapatti stand on her property. In order to do that, she needs to get enough money to purchase the ingredients to make chapatti, a type of bread really popular in Uganda. The closest description I can give is of flash-frying a Mexican tortilla (It is delicious!) Since her home is on a well-trafficked road (by traffic I am referring to people walking, occasional bicycle and of course the goats, chickens and dogs that want a little exercise.) she would hopefully have a steady stream of customers.


(Pictured: 2 twin boys playing in the rarely used charcoal hut next to their home.)

I have really changed my mind on some of my beliefs when it comes to giving aid since coming here and I can now appreciate the rising voices of people claiming foreign aid is debilitating Africa. However, in this instance, I believe it is possible that money could help someone generate her own income sustainably. It is also difficult to see a woman who has already raised children now having to raise another generation when she should be able to enjoy the efforts of her hard work as a wife and mother. Finally, I believe this woman truly needs help. Caring for two young boys while battling HIV is an incredible challenge. She has little to call her own; Her house is bare as she had someone rob her while she was caring for her brother. Unfortunately, they took almost everything of what little she had. I even noticed that for a type of hat, she was wearing the shirt of one of the twins.



This is one of thousands of dire situations but I want this to be a situation where I can assist someone in improving their outcome. Since she lives so close with her two boys and after seeking the opinion of a few others I believe it is a realistic possibility, I am going to use some of the money donated by my incredible friends and family to get the supplies she needs to sell chapatti. Hopefully with this income she can afford to get to the clinic to receive the medication she needs as well as support her grandchildren while her brother remains unable to work. Luckily for us at Kaccad, if she is able to make these daily, she will have several hungry KACCAD employees and volunteers as regular customers! I will make sure to provide updates on what I hope will be a successful opportunity for this family and I will also be sure to sample the product! :)

Getting to work!

After arriving at my new placement in the village of Bulenga, I met with Derrick, the director of KACCAD-the grassroots organization that specifically works in the community to spread accurate and important information regarding HIV and prevention/treatment methods. I will be working a lot with them and doing a variety of things from participating in testing days to going on home visits where we follow-up with people in the community who we know are HIV-positive. Right now the situation is a bit crazy. Several volunteers are here through a different organization but most are leaving this week. I am sharing a room with 3 other girls and there are 2 more in the room next to us that also holds our "shower" for all 6! We are all short-term volunteers and besides us, there is an English guy from Engineers Without Borders and a girl in the Peace Corp. who has been living in Uganda now for roughly 18 months. However, within 5 days, there will only Brooke, a nurse from New Jersey, Chris the engineer, Jennette from the Peace Corps and myself. All of us are doing different things and I believe I will be mostly on my own or working with the guys of KACCAD, native Ugandans.


I had my first round of home visits Tuesday, two days after I arrived. To help explain the purpose of visiting someone's home rather than at a clinic or hostpital, it is important to understand the difference in culture from most Western countries: in Uganda when you are sick with anything from a cough to a serious disease it is expected to go to the house and show concern. Where we are used to calling someone so as not to make them feel burdened with someone they have to entertain at their home, here visiting is expected! So not only do we go and monitor the progress of HIV and how to advise them to better care for themselves, we are also there as a sign of respect and concern. Apparently, it is also seen as an honor to have a mzungu (white person) all the way from America visit so hopefully even if that is all I can do, they will know people are concerned and care from everywhere!


A little bit about my visits: We went to 3 houses and I came out a little discouraged and confused-I went with Nicholas, one of the guys who works for KACCAD and on the way, he handed me a notebook and asked me if I would hold it. Sure, no problem! We arrived at the first house and by house, I am not referring to a multi-floored building with a shingled room and doorbell where through the peephole you can see a well-lit living room for guests. The house was a two room home with the rooms separated by a sheet hanging up in between. In the first room the only furniture was a small table and 2 cushion-less wood chairs. Both Nicholas and I were offered the chairs while the woman who appeared much older than she must be, unrolled a straw mat and sat on the floor. Her baby, under a year old sat on the floor while her other boy, 6 years old, sat on the table. After sitting, Nicholas asked me to start taking notes. Here is where I got a little confused. Notes on....what?! I had no idea what to do or what I was supposed to be recording. I felt a little nervous and frustrated as I wanted to do a good job but felt like I had no idea how to do that! What/who/for what purpose are the notes? I took the best notes I could. With Nicholas translating, I wrote down how she is HIV positive with 2 children both tested negative. Her only source of income is manual labor. I couldn't help but think how that's the last thing she should be doing. The positive note-she is taking Septrin, the (free) drug that you can pick up at any HIV center which must be taken daily from the day you are first diagnosed until you die. The negative? She is not eating a balanced diet because she like most people here cannot afford it. Her main concern is her children and when she dies, how to continue their education. All children are required to pay school fees and while it seems very small, for many parents it is not feasible.


This woman speaks no english so the entire time Nicholas was speaking to her in Luganda and translating into english for me. The other frustrating part was when I was asked if I wanted to start asking her some questions. I felt a little taken aback; What is an appropriate question? What can I ask her that will not seem completely ignorant or worse, condescending? I had been "trained" the day before when I was given 2 print-outs talking about nutrition and sanitation. These were very basic points like making sure you cover your toilet as toilet here means crude hole in the ground. I did learn that here, the 4 basic food groups are considered carbohydrates, lipids and fats, protein, and water. Yep, water. To be honest I just felt like saying, "what is the point of me asking a question when it is just having to be translated in Luganda and surely you are aware of everything I am?" I didn't understand why I was needed and how I was useful for these visits. Of course for me I am getting an education and learning a lot but what about these people? How would it be helping them?


I think it is going to take me some time but I know I will be able to adjust and appreciate the differences as well as contribute!


(Below: Our in-house engineer Chris made this greatly detailed layout of our home at KACCAD for his family and friends and I loved the clever captions so decided to show it to all of you as well. The top left picture is the "office" where we tend to hang out at night together waiting for the lights to come on. Top right is outside on the steps with the head of KACCAD, Derek, his wife Doreen and me! Bottom left is Chris' room including his pet (possibly slightly poisonous) spider that has made a web by his window the final picture was taken when Chris climbed the water tower. It shows our kitchen made up of a collection of dishes and an outside charcoal stove for cooking along with Chris' washing he (successfully?!?!) completed and left to dry. Hopefully you can read the descriptions!


Thursday, August 13, 2009

The Do's and Don'ts of International Immunizations

(photo: In the doctor's office in Dublin prior to receiving 3 shots.)

The following is my experience getting immunized abroad. Basically, through my own errors as well as success, I learned some valuable lessons. Hopefully if you ever decide to travel to a malaria hotbed, you will be PREPARED! Here is my list of do's and don'ts.

Do: Get immunized. Duh. I didn't want to be too obvious but you neeever know.

Don't: Go through the Michigan vaccination clinics list and pick one that says "international" with that being your only qualifier.

Dont: Got continue with your appointment when the nurse whose job it is to give vaccinations specifically for African travel gives you a blank look when you state your chosen destinations name
True story; (attendant) "wow so yellow fever shot, where are you going?"
(me) Uganda
(attendant)...(pause)...oh, ok. hmm.
(slightly concerned me) yeah, it's a country in Africa.
(attendant, now much more enthusiastic) "Ooooh wow great! How cool, I'm so jealous!"

So that was sign #1. Sign #2 was probably when I had to explain and add up my own pills for malaria to the DOCTOR. Apparently, I really threw her off guard when I said I needed them now (May) even though I was leaving in August due to the fact I lived in Madrid. She proceeded to start the count from the day I left for Madrid to the day I return from Uganda. Sign #3? She still prescribed the wrong amount. (mom, remind me to get one more pill when I come home!) BUT...don't think I'm completely ridiculous-I had 2 days to get it done if I wanted to do it in the U.S! Moooving on...

Don't: Attempt to do any type of immunizing in Spain. At all. While in the U.S you pay more for a 2 second shot than a life coach and I admire Spain's no nonsense approach to last minute requests, the whole humanitarian/"uh this is kinda important" aspect hasn't settled in. I tried to schedule appointments for shots that are considered HIGHLY recommended (you know like meningitis, hepatitis, polio, nothing serious...) and the response? "Sorry, we are booked for 2 months." I guess I understand when their office hours are literally a whopping 5 hours a day, 4 days a week. I am the first one to tell people Spain does not follow the siesta rule like everyone thinks but apparently immunization clinics DO.

Do: Go to Dublin! One email and 24 hours later, I had an appointment, a personalized email confirming all costs and recommendations, and a "See you soon!" as a closer. Still a little dubious, I can now confirm that this was the best decision. The doctor had lived in Africa for 2 years and has been to Uganda several times. Not only did I get these shots for waaay cheaper than if I had gone in the U.S, I also got health safety brochures he actually wrote and publishes. The ultimate affirmation this clinic rocks? Free suckers. No need to ask.

Don't: Wait until the last minute. Duh.

Do: WAIT to write about it in your blog until after you have your situation worked out. I advise you to wait until you have secured your chances of survival from all water/food/animal borne diseases during your chosen experience. For me that meant waiting 2 weeks until 2 of my immunizations became 100% effective. :)

Saturday, August 1, 2009

When thinking it would be an experience  I would never forget, was right!  Arriving in Uganda was like nothing I have seen/done before. Getting off the plane and onto the tarmac was a crazy feeling-I no longer had the choice of choosing when to think about what to bring or how to prepare- I had arrived. It felt slightly overwhelming and I started to think of all the things I could have/should have done to be more organized or pack more responsibly but  within 2 minutes, I gave that up. I'm here. It's now. Here I go!

So the first thing you have to do is get your visa which you can do 
at the airport. You pay $50 U.S dollars and is is usually good for 60 days- in theory. However, the issuer is at liberty to allot more or less time if he/she chooses. Luckily, the man I had gave me 90 days so I won't have to worry at all while I am here. After getting my passport stamped and getting my THREE bags feeling a little self conscious of the amount I had (to which, when Leslie saw my luggage responded; "well, you don't pack light!") I was warmly received by Leslie who was holding abig sign with my name on it. Taking me to her car, it was an awesome surprise to see she had brought a giant water bottle for me for the roughly 1 1/2 hour drive to Mukono where the volunteer headquarters is. Leslie is the program director (the big boss) of The Real Uganda, the program I am working with while here. Originally from Canada, she volunteered for 3 months in Ghana several years ago. Deciding it wasn't enough time to be fully immersed in the culture and experience, she chose to come back committing herself to a year and this time choosing Uganda. Falling in love with the country and it's people, she just celebrated her 5th year here and built up her organizations to partner with over 20 small grassroots organizations sending them funds and volunteers to encourage expansion and constant improvement.With Leslie telling me a little bit about herself and her work, she also gave me great information and advice ranging from "you should cry your first week here" to "people believe that the problem with Africa is simply there  is not enough money. There is money it's just not handled in the same way. Relationships come first. There is not training in business practices." I tried taking it all in but at the same time my eyes were probably having mini epileptic fits moving in every direction following the-I guess I will use the word, "traffic."

We were taking the main road and by main road I should be a little more specific and say, ONLY road that goes through a majority of soutern Uganda and actually ends in Nairobi, Kenya. There were so many sights to absorb;  cows and goats grazing on the side of the road while Ugandan taxis (which we would call vans) are stuffed with enough people
to have a football game with both sides accounted for; perhaps even a few extras thrown in to keep up concessions. These taxis and boda-bodas, motorbike taxis that would give an overprotective parent nightmares for the rest of his/her life, are the main source of transportation. On boda-bodas, you jump on the backseat and (holding on?!) 
just go. I will let you know what it's like when I get to try it! The way they are used is incredible. I saw a woman holding a baby and a large package clearly comfortable and without concern go by as well as a man cradling two large plastic bags with each hand and one between him and the driver. It's also common to view more than one person using the boda-boda. It was definitely a little crazy but also cool to watch how this thing called "transportation" rises to a whole new level here. However, that was by no means the most surprising thing I discovered on my first day. I noticed something that seemed a little strange about the people all around me; ALL of them look incredible! Bright colored clothing spotless with beautiful skin and hair. They may be walking into their home which is little more than a hut with no electricity or running water and yet their shirts and pants look pressed and their shoes are shined. I on the other hand was fully aware that my appearance was less than immaculate. Within 5 minutes of walking down the road, I am accumulating dust and already feel grimy.

I was aware before coming of the standard of dress here: it is not really appropriate for women to wear shorts or short skirts. Shorts are really only worn by children and dressing conservatively is standard. It does not matter what you do or who you are, you are expected to look nice and it is easy to spot a backpacker a mile away. Ugandans pride themselves on their appearance as they absolutely should. Trying to take the image of a well-dressed, beautiful person and meshing it with the reality of poverty is difficult for me. It is quite humbling to understand that while someone might have so little, they will make the best use of what they have. For example, a man might have only 1 or 2 shirts that he can wear to work and so every night, he will take them home and his wife will wash and d
ry it (by hand of course!) and then in the morning, use her coal burning iron to press it. It will honestly look brand new and no one would know he had worn the same shirt the previous day. Incredible. As for me, I'm attempting to master the art of bucket showering and looking decent before I go into the one outfit mindset. One day at a time...

As far as the living accommodations go, I am staying in the volunteer house until Sunday when I go to my placement about an hour and a half away and closer to Kampala. The place I am staying now is basically headquarters for The Real Uganda and also a place to hang out if you want a place to meet with other volunteers. I am staying with one other girl from New Zealand who leaves tomorrow for her placement and am getting acclimated to the new and interesting differences about my life in Uganda. Bucket showers and pits for latrines are standard here but nothing I didn't expect. I attached a picture of the sink used in the room where you can shower as well. It's functional and low maintenance that's for sure! I am a little nervous about getting used to the bathroom but I have confidence if kids and elderly can do it, so can I!

I also attached some pictures of the coolest part of the house; the walls. In the main room where we eat and can relax anyone who volunteers can write on the walls when they leave. There are some really interesting as well as some awesome artwork on the wall and I attached a few of my favorites. People have come as far as Taiwan to volunteer with this program and it is really cool to see what people have said to leave a mark!